To the Abode of the Greek Gods

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To the Abode of the Greek Gods Grant Newton Sun, sea, sand, sex and souvlaki - the general tourist view of Greece. For one Kiwi traveller it was great to have left the Greek Islands 45°Con Santorini was getting a little tough to handle and it was time to head for the mainland. single day in Athens ensuredi got some culture by visiting the lacropolis before boarding the train to Litohoro at 8.30am. Six weeks ofs sunshine, hot temperatures and not a drop of rain was about to change. As the train headed north, the mountains became shrouded in cloud, the rain set in and temperatures came tumbling back to "normal" levels. Jumping off the train in Litohoro made railway stations in remote NZ locations look a welcome sight. The station was several kilometres from town, no information whatsoever and no public transport. began by tackling the main highway. Six lanes of high-speed traffic probably heading fromAthens to Turkey or Bulgaria were successfully jaywalked before tracking down a bus stop no bus for 45 minutes! A 15-minute wait and l'dl hitched Top ofl Mt Olympus, Greece Grant Newton a ride to the village from wherelcould catch a taxi to the start of the track this must be the range of8 peaks), Skala Peak, at 2866m. A scramble downexecutive tramping experience: driving up a gravel moun- wards followed, before a rocky uphill scramble to thel hightain road in a Mercedes. Upon arrival at Prionia, there est peak of the Mt Olympus massif. At 2917m, the highwas still a little moisture in the air; it was 4pm and I was est point in Greece was marked with a Greek flag and tired before even starting to walk. logbook. Views werei intermittent amongst the cloud that The cool temperatures were a welcome relief andl set rolled in and out. The sea was very close; l'm sureif the offf feeling remarkably refreshed the cool mountain air weather was good views would be possible to Turkey, does wonders. A 2-hour walk winding up the mountain Bulgaria and maybe Macedonia from this magnificent vantook me to the refuge. En route met up with an American tage point. who was living in Greece. He was working for a weather A demanding scramble for 30 minutes led me off the modification company that was tendering for a job in NZ peak and then Iwas able to make it to a plateau with two lassumed that the area ofl NZ was no doubt the Tararuas. refuges and a chance to get an early lunch. A long trip lay The refuge was a luxurious establishment, in fact the ahead, down a track used frequently by mules to get supbest accommodation I had experienced on my 4 months' plies to the refuges. In winter the plateau is a cross-countravels sot far. Itl held about 90 people, SO space shouldn't try skiing area, SO all year round this area attracts visitors. be a problem, thought luckilyl Iwas right, only 10-15 Plenty of fog surrounded the region as I descended, people arrived for the night, but it had been a full house meeting a variety of hikers from Poland, Greece and the the previous night. Czech Republic en route to the road. Instead of hitching a Alog fire inside and the cool temperatures outside made ride back, headed up the road for 2 km before picking it difficult to comprehend this was the same country as 2 up another track on the opposite side of the valley which days earlier while on thei island of Santorini. Ihad travelled led me all the way back to Litohoro, just in time for the light, onlya a 25-litre daypack was required to carry aj jacket, bus to the railway station. Alongi journey rounded off the camera and warm clothes. Food could be purchased at trip as arrived lin the capital at 2.00am. Iwas left amazed the refuge and no need for a sleeping bag here. that less than 48 hours had passed; I had spent 15 hours An early wake-up at 6.30am meant a crisp start to the in trains and still managed a climb of a 2900m peak. day and hopefully some clear conditions before the sea There was minimal time to rest before my next train at fog rolled in. The walk was relatively easy, a steady uphill 6.30am to Olympia and a chance to visit the ruins of the climb to thet first peak (Mt Olympus is a horseshoe shaped ancient Olympic games. Tramping and Mountaineering 1999