Dusky and beyond...

Dusky and beyond...

Three years ago I had an amazing time exploring Doubtful Sound in Fiordland by kayak, ana ever since then, going back to paddle Dusky Sound has been high on my list of things to do

The idea of paddling in one the most remote areas of New Zealand seemed like the bes way to get away from it all, and the trip was finally realised last Christmas usky Sound was the first place Captain Cookvisited in New Zealand when he spent a month here in

1773 exploring the outer reaches of the Sound, as well as undertaking ashonomical and botanical studies. A number of other colourful characters have left their mark on history here, such as Richard Henry, famous for looking after kakapo and other native birds on Resolution Island from 1894 until 1902, when he left despondent after discoveringweasels could swim across from the mainland. After discussing various access options, we finally settled on flying in by helicopter as this is far less weatherdependant than floatplane. A couple of days before Xmas saw Wayne, Lyndsay, Sue and myself arriving at Southern Lakes Helicopters' hangar in Te Anau ready to load the kayaks and all our gear and food for 12 days. We were quite intrigued as to how Richard, the chopper pilot, would manage to carry four boats, but this proved no problem - they were safely shapped onto the struts of the aircraft.

...w€ nearly fell out of our boats at the shock of seeing the rcar of a huge cruiseliner heading out to sea!

Clouds were hanging around the hills as we approached the western end of Lake Manapouri, and we were looking for a clear pass to cross the Divide. After considering two, the third one was okay and then we suddenly dived down into a patch of clear air, and followed the Dusky Track down the Seaforth River to Supper Cove. It's amazing to think it only takes 30 minutes from civilisation to one of the most remote areas of New Zealand - much more preferable than several days of grovelling through waistdeep mud!

We quicldy unloaded the chopper, and took refuge from the ferocious sandflies in Supper Cove Hut. I was trying out my new piece of wearable art whenever I ventured outside - a curtain wrapped around my head to keep the little bastards out. Wayne's preferred method was using insect repellent as hairspray - probably not recommended!

It rained that night, but by morning the weather was fine and sunny and we had a long day cruising out through the Sound and through the Cook Channel to Cascade Cove, where we anived to find a really good established campsite. We arrived in time for a nice swim in the sea and our mountain radio sched, which was our only means of communication. The mountain radio person in Christchurch

Jeanine Langvi was being very helpful - giving us the marine forecas every night. We found a garden chair that Lyndsay proceeded to carry around with him for the rest of the hip and which was eventually left at Supper Cove. Who saic we weren't advanced kayakers?

The next day, Christmas Day, we spent exploring Indiar Island and Pickersgill Harbour, where Cook's ship Resolution stayed in1773. There is a boardwalk arounc Astronomer's Point, where they were based, and stump from trees they felled are still visible. The clearing was made so that Cook's scientists could accurately fix the geographical position of Dusky Sound and New Zealand

Dusky Sound has a good combination of a number o small islands in the outer reach as well as several long deep fiords. On Boxing Day the weather was calm so we decided to head straight up the Acheron Passage (notoriou for howling northerlies) to Breaksea Sound and explor Vancouver and Broughton arms. That day it bucketed down and we had a fuemendous thunderstorm as we approache Breaksea Sound. It's quite freaky paddling along as tht lightning and thunder gets closer and closer, hoping you'rr not going to be the next hit. I was soaking wet and cold and it was great to finally get to the grassy campsite a Harbour Beach where we located a meatsafe cum shed which we crammed into while cooking dinner and dryin out our gear.

We spent the next couple of days paddling the tw< Arms, encountering a large pod of dolphins that kept u entertained for hours - definitely one of the highlights o the trip. Vancouver and Broughton arms were beautifu paddling in millpond conditions, with high peaks on eithe side of the fiord. It was amazing to think Hall Arm o Doubtful Sound, where we were paddling three years earlie was just across those hills.

Lyndsay caught a couple of large blue cod, which w steamed on the fire wrapped in foil with lemon juice, o and herbs - delicious. Our next aim was Wet Jacket Arn - and from our beach campsite at the entrance to thi fiord, we spent a long day (40km) exploring it, and lookin for signs of moose. Moose were liberated in Fiordland ir

1910 for hunting purposes, and although the last moos

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was seen in the 1950s, some keen individuals are still engaged in the great moose chase. Wayne was fortunate to stumble across the "Mooseman" himself, based at Herrick Creek for 40 days each summer for the last 30 years looking for signs of the animals, in what I'd say is definitely not moose countryr. Now that is dedication, or as some would say obsession!

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Having conquered the fiords, we headed back out the outer Dusky Sound area again hoping to be able to explore some of the islands there. But as the weather forecast was a bit dodgy and we couldn't find anywhere to camp on the southern side of Resolution Island (only a helicopter landing site to enjoy a sunny lunch at), we went back to Cascade Cove, which almost felt like coming homel two lt us ts of Ltiful ther n o f dier,

En route, we had a look around Luncheon Cove on Anchor Island, site of the first dwelling place in New Zealand made by Europeans in 7792 and where New Zealand's first ship was built. It's a beautiful location set among the tiny islets, creating a natural harbour. A French yacht was anchored here, preparing to sail to Tasmania the next day. A number of fur seals were scattered around on the rocks in the sun, but must have sensed my fellow countrymen's notoriety for seal-clubbing because they quickly disappeared as we got closer.

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As we headed out of the cove we nearly fell out of our boats at the shock of seeing the rear of a huge cruiseliner heading out to sea! Apparently as many as 35 cruise ships per year sail down the Acheron Passage. We sure were glad this <ing d i n |ose

Tramping and Mountaineering 2001 /2002 we didn't meet it therel It seemed like a huge intrusion in such a remote and peaceful environment.

The next day we finally had a rest day (after the Colonel put his foot down) and it was great to sleep, read, eat and generally rest my tired upper body.

The trip was nearing the end and we spent a couple of days cruising back down the Sound. We camped at Sportsman Cove on Cooper Island, a great little bush campsite, and that night we had some incredible lightning and the loudest thunderstorms I've ever heard, echoing for what felt like hours amongst the hills.

Our last day in Dusky Sound was gloomy and rainy and we were beginning to wonder if the helicopter would be able to fly in to pick us up the following day. If anything, the next day was even wetter and gloomier, but at 9am as agreed we heard the familiar sound of the chopper and to our delight the Jetranger appeared out of the murk. The chopper brought in a few overseas trampers who didn't look like lhey even wanted to get out of the aircraft - obviously totally unprepared for the conditions. No doubt they would soon appreciate the unique Fiordland weather!

It was strange to be back in civilisation; tiny Te Anau seemed very crowded after the peacefulness of Dusky Sound. Back in Wellington, the Fiordland map was again consulted, searching for other paddling destinations. Exposed Preservation and Chalky inlets and elusive Puysegur Point immediately stood out as the ultimate challenqe...