--
Ohau I love to tramp
Christmas signals sLtmmer, the season for sun and for tramping amongstthe
Southern AIps. What we hope for is not always reality and once again the
ChristmasNew Year weather gods looked down upon trampers with dissent and delivered the rain. But rain will never deter a tramper, with whom a battle with the weather makes the success seem even sweeter.
he wind was howling across the bare Mackenzie
Country and inside a "dog box" at the Mt Cook turn-off lay Gabriel, waiting, reading and hoping that a warm car would arrive to deliver him to the head of Lake Ohau.
Humming across the flat straight roads Roger, Simon and Grant arrived. Roger was delighted with his Boxing Day sale purchases at Briscoes, Simon was glad to be back in New Zealand, and Grant was merely determined to get to the roadend and leave the car behind. Ohau Lodge provided us with a driver to shuttle the car to the roadend, and the young employeel appropriaiely named Jock, hadn't t-
Grant Newtot
Crossing from the South Temple to the South Huxley (Grant Newton)
banked on meeting a cheeky tramper. So after a few laugh wewere off and heading up South Temple Stream by 6pm Straight away we had wet feet, courtesy of a river crossing By B.30pm wewere in the hut and dinner was underway helping to reduce the weight of those heavy packs.
Lying ahead lay trvo crossings of the Southern Alps - Brodrick Pass and Elcho Pass - crossings we hoped wouk be done in good weather; after all we were here for thr views and summer was meant to bring the good weather But waking up for our first day, the weather was hardll encouraging and with a high pass to cross today, we couk only hope that better conditions lay ahead. Beyond Soutl
Trampi ng and Mountaineering 2001 /200.
Temple Hut there was no track. The wilderness feeling was evident and there was also the feeling that civilisation was in another world. We battled the drizzle and enjoyed the brief appearance of the sun as we ate lunch. A snow shower followed as we tackled the haul up to the coland then the weather partially cleared, giving good tops travel. Mt Huxley loomed out of the cloud looking more impressive than a big Himalayan Peak - its awesome stature exciting the mountaineering desire.
The South Huxley biv lay at the bottom of a large descent beginning with a tricky rock scramble and concluding with a scrub-bash. The attitude one takes to a scrub-bash definitely impacts on the mood at the end of it. While there was muttering and swearing towards the back as the struggle seemed to get harder and deeper, out in front Roger merely leapt through it, barely stopping to touch the ground. He was like an excited child; maybe the idea of 8 or 9 evenings in charge of the mountain radio kept him going, or maybe those bargains at Briscoes were just too good to forget? By 7pm we were at the biv and the Kiwis then proceeded to put on a classic haka for our Swedish companion before dining in the biv.
We crammed into the biv and over dinner questioned Roger in detail about the differences of life in the South Huxley compared to suburban life in Upper Hutt. The light
'We realise you have a choice of bivouacs and we thank you for choosing to dine with us tonight."
drizzle was still shrouding the valley as Simon and Grant stepped outside to theirtent. Thegwere farewelled with the gracious comment from their hosts - "We realise you have a choice of bivouacs and we thank you for choosing to dine with us tonight."
The Huxley is certainly a beautiful valley and traversing its length makes for a shortish but very pleasant day. Awakening late, a fresh dusting of snow lay on the impressive Mt Huxley and surrounding peaks. Yesterday's path of descent, on reflection, looked an impressive alpine effort as the snow deceived the eye and enhanced the severity. The final section to Huxley Forks was an ugly scramble, testing the patience, even though it wasn't lunchtime. Huxley Forks was a great spot to eat lunch, but across the river we spotted the first people we had seen on this trip. Odd light showers fell as we walked up to North Huxley on a better track but there was still lots of up and down. Arriving at Brodrick Hut, we found three others already there - the hut was so dark it seemed like nighftime upon entry. Soon after, the other three people were off to sleep and we had to step outside io appreciate it was only 6pm in mid summer, with 4 hours of daylight left.
)
laughs l6pm. rssing. rrway, ilnc - would or the
About Bpm, things got busier as a hunter, his dog and hvo young sons arrived with no tent. Our tents were now required and we abandoned the hut, and headed out to the tents that were to shelter us from ever increasingdrizzle. Awakening, we realised the bad weather had set in, so decided to wait it out and enjoy a pit-bash. As we huddled ather. rardly could South t/2002
Tramping and Mountaineering 2001 /2002 around the warm fire, the rain continued to fall and then out of the murk arrived Charlie Batho and two friends. They had decided to put up with the rough weather and tackled Brodrick Pass hoping for a dry hut. While three people had departed, the hut was already well and truly full, as the North Shore Tramping Club, who had parties throughout the region, had joined us.
The waiting out of the bad weather proved to be the right decision as we departed Brodrick Hut the next day and headed off under good conditions to Brodrick Pass. The route is straightforward, ascending snow grass and tussock-covered slopes. The views up and down the Huxley were nothing short of impressive and upon arrival at the pass we paused by a beautiful half-frozen tarn. We were now atop the Main Divide, the Southern Alps. The views to the other side and into the Landsborough weren't so great as the mountains obscure the valley floor, but the pass itself was a neat spot.
Carrying ice axes had been for a purpose and now came the chance to put them to use as we chose to climb Mt McKenzie, a peak north of, and some 400m higher than Brodrick Pass. There was some clag around the peak, deceiving the eyes as after an easy ascent, the rocky outcrops upon the summit teased lhe eye. Thinking we were atop the peak, the cloud would part to unveil another slightly higher crag. Finally we reached the summit and could appreciate the dramatic views to the Huxley as the cloud parted around us.
It was with some disappointment that we left this beautiful area and began our long descent to the Landsborough. Such a long descent not only involves a descent, as we were to find out. Upon hitting the bushline, wewere forced into a climb, which concluded with views up the stunning Landsborough Valley. Then the steep descent began again as we rapidly plunged into the depths of the valley and unceremoniously dropped the final couple of metres to a creek bed. Then it was half an hour to the main valley and a stroll to Creswicke Flat. It was a beautiful evening to land at the airstrip; our foot-assisted landing had been a great day. Picking the route described by Moirs Guide Book proved smart as the hunter and young lads struggled into camp quite late, their descent taking an extra 4 hours via a more northern route on the true right. The fine weather was set to continue, but for only one more day before the storms were due to arrive. Awakening to a good day we headed up the Landsborough, stopping at a rafting camp which included picnic tables. The travel was easygoing and after lunch we began our climb iowards Elcho Pass. Our mission was to reach a camp above the bushline, to be followed by a quick retreat to the eastern side of the alps. This area is part of a wilderness area - no signs of humans they say. . . but surely a known route would afford us the luxury of a ground trail to follow - noi so!
The bush-bash got harder and harder, especially as we had dropped off the main spur, and it was tough going to get back to the main part of the spur. The cloud cover had begun to roll in and as we broke out of the bush, light mist surrounded us as we arrived at a cluster of tarns with a great campsite. Views across to the icefall off Mt Dechen and to the Landsborough valley floor made the climb worthwhile.
Roger was, as usual, well prepared for the radio sched that evening so we could hear the extent of the bad weather - heavy rain warning tomorrow and the day after,2SO_ 300mm per day and storm force winds from lunchtime tomorrowl A message to Andrew Mclellan would give us an idea of the difficulties of the route ahead. The resnonse was "easygoing up to the pass followed by a VERysteep descent". The route ahead looked gnarly enough and the thought of the descent being worse made one or two of us a little nervous. The words "very steepdescent" played on my mind as I tried to get to sleep; sleep that would be much appreciated since an early start had been planned.
The rain got heavier as the night went on and as the alarm went, the rain was torrential. We tossed and turned but did not venture out of the pits for another 30 minutes when the rain died off. We leapt up and by 7.30am we were underway walking, the rain having restarted, but the wind not yet an issue. The guidebook indicated a trickv section at 1700m, but at 1600m I started to doubt mv altimeter, as the difficulty here was significa nt; we werl traversing a knife-edge ridge. I straddled the ridge on my bum with a leg either side - what would the section at 1700 metres be like, and for that matter, what would the other "very steep" side be like?
I proceeded down and around kicking steps, and my pack was kindly lowered to me on a section of rone. WL crossed a comparatively straightforward notch ai 1700 metres and onwards and upwards we went, before a sidle
.P r tll
I ( E l q )
l q )
S)
G ol:
J!
$ *J
\ \ J x > ';:- x ! r-t F :\z down to Elcho Pass. I looked over to the other ..very steet side and couldn'tbelievemV luck-yes itwas moderate steep, but the snow was perfect and the descent would t abreeze. The forecast had been correct, the rain had corr and now at midday the wind had gathered momentun but crossing the Main Divide to the east sheltered us an we began a long but very cold descent to Elcho Strean assisted by a long snow chute which included a snowbrido to easily cross the now swollen Elcho Stream
The track had been washed away in many places an the going was slow but eventually we reached the forl and a couple of tents -wewere heading on to a nice dr hut! With great relief we arrived at an emptgr hut, a lon adventurous day complete. With the satisfaction of second crossing of the Southern Alps in 3 days, we huddler around the fire and consumed hot drinks. Later we diner in style as our waiter came dressed in a white shirt and tie
The heavy rain warning was in place so we chose tr relax and have a pit-bash - there was no way our side tril to the Dasler Pinnacles was a chance with the swolle Hopkins River separating us. The weather fooled us thougl as. it cleared to a pleasant day and at morning teatimr other trampers anived to drink tea served by the welt_dresse waiter. Then in walked the North Shore TC and the hu was a hive of activity.
. After Roger got a bad splinter - he should have stayec dressed in the white shirt and tie instead of barefoot walking - we began our walk out under more torrential rain. A pleasant dry stop for lunch at Monument Hut gave some respite before the long bash over a 4WD track to our vehicle and a cheeky greeting from Jock.
Even the pain of a swollen foot couldn,t deter Roge from a final banter of cheek and the trip was a dramalic but satisfying memory as we dried out - after all. Rooer had some towels from a Boxing Day sale, ,,Briscoes greaLst eversale", no less!
Tramping and Mountaineering 2O0l /2002
Comments
Comments are not open yet.