Could this be “The perfect trip”?
Could this be the perfect trip? A trip to Angelus had been on my mind for some time after hearing so many people talk about it. Although I was feeling a tad jaded with Nelson Lakes, it seemed to offer that rare equation – a medium alpine trip with a hut and multiple options. I’d walked the Robert Ridge and seen the Lake in summer, On Saturday, I woke with the odd feeling that I’d had a good night sleep. Yes, it was crisp but one of those beautiful St Arnaud mornings. If I’d had the usual ‘arrive at midnight and sleep on frozen concrete’ nights, my mood would have evaporated as soon as I’d glimpsed Lake Roitoiti through the DOC shelter window.
We drove up to the Mt Robert carpark and set off in sunshine up towards the ski field. It became so hot that I was reminded of why I don’t like tramping in summer. After stopping every ten minutes to shed an item of clothing (and sneak a break), we all stopped to enjoy the keas showing off on the ski field. Reaching the Robert Ridge, the wind started to rise and we had a hurried lunch stop (anything less than an hour is hurried in my book!) and put on layers and crampons. Though cloudy, we still had good views either side of the ridge. The descent down to Angelus Hut was fun with a lot of badly directed glissading. The hut has a spade sticking out of its roof but we didn’t need to dig ourselves in this time. We did need Another stunning St Arnaud morning Grant Newton Tramping & Mountaineering 2003 Maria Cunningham but a winter trip to the top is what Angelus is all about.
to dig out ice to defrost for a cuppa though.
After a comfy night, we headed up towards Angelus at the reasonable time of eightish. Lake Angelus was completely frozen over – but we didn’t push our luck by walking over it! It was my turn to be the-annoyingperson-who’s-crampons-keep-coming-off’! Grant was his usual patient and positive self, adjusting crampons on a steep slope with frozen hands. We gained the summit surprisingly quickly and had a great half-hour larking about enjoying the superb view. The view was so good that Jon decided it was the perfect place to propose to Natasha! We headed down about half-past ten with me stepping gingerly and bringing up the rear (again). I wish putting on crampons was just like getting back on a bike, but I seem to have to relearn how to use them each time. Cloud starting pouring in at 11 and by the time we stopped for lunch it was snowing. We abandoned our plan of walking the ridges that surround the lake. For the second time that day, I felt sorry for the fits. Not only had they had a sucky alpine start that morning but they also would have been still heading up to Hopeless when the snow arrived! The rest of the day was spent sleeping (me) and trying to coerce tales of the Himalayas out of David Jewel. Dave Barker produced a fruitcake (10 kilos, home made) that put to shame my dessert offering of the night before (2 kilos, store bought). We took turns reading (if you could lay your hands on it) and reflecting on John Krakauer’s book ‘Into the Wild’. I had done quite enough exercise to enjoy another good nights’ sleep.
Day three dawned and it was time to say goodbye to our white world. We set off in blizzardy conditions but as soon as we got a little way down into the valley, the sun came out. Even an impromptu dip in the stream didn’t dampen my spirits. I was left with one of those tramping after glows that last all week.
All those people who rave about Angelus are right. My thanks to my fellow trampers Catherine Taylor, Graham Morely, Jon Parker, Natasha Gibbs, David Jewell, David Barker & Grant Newton, for making this the perfect trip.
Heading to the summit Grant Newton Hanging out at the hut, passing away the afternoon Grant Newton Tramping & Mountaineering 2003

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