Trekking to the base camps of Kangchenjunga

Trekking to the base camps of Kangchenjunga On Nepal’s far eastern border with Sikkim (India) lies the 3rd highest peak in the world, Kangchenjunga at 8586m. Kanhchenjunga means “the five treasures of the great snows” and is regarded as one of the harder 8000 metre peaks to climb. It was first summitted by 4 climbers from the 1955 British Expedition (including New Zealander, Norm Hardie). This mighty massif has two base camps in Nepal and one in Sikkim. My goal was far less than the summit, just a mere wander with a guided group to visit the Nepalese base camps at Pangpema Unlike the trekker’s mecca of the Nepalese regions of Annapurna, Everest and Langtang with their fine infrastructure to support trekkers, the Kangchenjunga region remains relatively under-developed. Despite being opened to trekkers in 1988, it still remains a restricted area where permits and guides are requirements of entry. It is a region that has retained its culture and sports a lesser impact of any westernisation as it only attracts 600 trekkers a year, as opposed to the 70,000 plus in the Annapurna region.

Due to the regions distance from Kathmandu, the logistics involved in trekking this region are slightly tricky. The road to the district headquarters of Taplejung is not always negotiable and there are no scheduled direct flights from Kathmandu to the nearby airstrip at Suketar.

So it was with some relief that my trip operator World Expeditions had managed to secure a charter flight direct to Suketar. While the airstrip may not be quite as scenic as Lukla of the Everest region, my guidebook described it as “one of the most hairraising landings imaginable” and ”way above Lukla in the adrenaline stakes”. Our landing verified this. The plane seemed to float above the airstrip while being buffeted by cross winds before eventually touching down near the end of the airstrip. Luckily for me, I could not see how close that end was, but the extreme braking and a rapid “handbrake turn” left us with a mere 15-20 metres to spare!

Despite the presence of armed police flanking the area, there was relief to be on solid ground with the sun shining and in the quietness of the hills. A recent uprising of the Maoists had put all government officials on alert and security was at levels unknown in this relatively passive country. Our cheerful Gurkha guide Ramesh sported a beaming smile that became a feature that did not change for the entire duration of the trip.

The imposing face of Jannu Grant Newton Tramping & Mountaineering 2003 Grant Newton (north) and Oktang (south).

Although I had trekked in the Nepal Himalaya before, this was my first time travelling “expedition” style and I immediately realised the extent of the support crew. The area swarmed with red “crew” jackets. Sherpa guides, kitchen staff and porters totalled 35 for a mere 12 punters. Meals would comprise several courses and be served by sherpa guides at tables

Campsite at Lhonak Grant Newton complete with table cloths, a somewhat different dining experience to a New Zealand tramping trip where a fallen tree or flat rock provides the dining furniture and its all help-yourself. The Sherpa guides are also charged with guiding the group while the army of porters transport tents and gear in large baskets secured with woven straps strung across their foreheads. The kitchen staff impressed us continuously by preparing many varied dishes from a limited array of provisions.

The towering peaks may draw first time trekkers to Nepal, but it’s the beaming smiles and welcoming personalities of the local people that result in the return visits for so many trekkers. Outside of Kathmandu’s chaos, no one knows how to raise their voice or frown, and a friendly aura always awaits a weary trekker. While mostly a Hindu country with some Buddhists in the high country, Nepalese people show a remarkable tolerance to other religions - a trait rarely displayed in many of Nepal’s neighbouring countries. The faces of fine-featured Hindus give way to the round smiling faces of Tibetan Buddhists as you trek from the lowlands to the mountains.

The first leg of my journey began with a descent into the Tamor Khola (river). As we moved off the ridge, the calm conditions became somewhat tropical as the heat and humidity combined. Afternoon showers on the first afternoon reminded us that the monsoon season wasn’t quite over and called for the use of our Tramping & Mountaineering 2003 parkas. However the weather settled and this was to be the only use of the parka in 26 days.

Having left a kiwi winter to 30-degree temperatures I found heading up the valley, even at a slow pace, to be tiring work. The depths of Himalyan valleys are extreme, and nestled at the bottom were some delightful campsites beside the river. But come morning these campsites took some time to see the sun. At the lower altitudes, the coolness was appreciated, but as we made progress up valley I found it harder and harder to draw myself out of my sleeping bag. By the time we reached Ghunsa (3500 metres) snow was appearing on the tops, and village architecture had changed from thatched pitched roofs, to Tibetan flat roofed stone buildings.

To help acclimatise for the higher altitudes of the base camps, we set off on a side trip from Ghunsa to Nangbo La (4820 metres). The promise of views across the dry, barren Yangma Valley to the Tibetan border spurred us on despite the substantial altitude gain and sudden oxygen loss. As the air thinned, my breathing turned to gasping; my pace slowed and rocks turned to snow. Before long, a traditional array of Buddhist prayer flags appeared indicating the pass. Jagged snow-capped Sarphu peaks rose above us, and the barren landscape ahead was a dramatic contrast with the lush bush clad valleys that had been left behind. The impact of the altitude left us all with headaches that afternoon.

Departing from Ghunsa the damp undergrowth gave way to larch and juniper trees and a desolate alpine environment appeared as we neared Pangpema - the northern base camp of Kangchenjunga. As the valley opens up, peaks soar with a side valley at Kamberchen providing the most dramatic peak, Kumbhakarna / Jannu (7710 metres). Jannu’s northern face is almost vertical and looks imposing especially when viewed from your tent door. Its reputation as one of the stunning Himalayan peaks is well deserved and it was difficult to draw your eyes away from its majesty.

The next stop was Lhonak - a nearby side valley that leads to the tall peak of Kambache (7903 metres). Any opportunity to sleep here was ruined by the local yaks complete with bells, wandering amongst the tents and guy ropes all night inquisitive of their new visitors.

As we neared Pangpema, the dramatic Chang Himal / Wedge Peak rose straight up from the Kangchenjunga Glacier to 6750 metres. While smaller in comparison to other peaks, its fluted face is spectacular. No sooner had Chang Himal been passed, than Pangpema greeted us with a view of the north face of mighty Kangchenjunga. Even when 8kms away, its sheer size fooled us into thinking it Kangchenjunga from Pangpema, the northern base camp Grant Newton Tramping & Mountaineering 2003 was a mere 2-3kms away. At 5200 metres the air was now very thin and you only have 52% of the oxygen that would normally available at sea level. I struggled to shake a lethargic mood, preferring to rest and read and suck in the full 52% of oxygen. Pangpema consisted of a couple of basic stone huts and tents dotted from one other trekking group plus one mountaineering group. After a cold but stunning evening with a full moon, we progressed back down valley with the sun shining strongly. My legs appreciated the gentle descent and the thicker air was my appreciated by my lungs.

On the return to Kamberchen, the punters and our fantastic crew spent a spare afternoon taking part in the inaugural “Kamberchen Games”. Led by an enthusiastic Australian, staff and punters were randomly divided into teams to participate in activities such as egg and spoon & three-legged races and the “Dungcus”. The “Dungcus” is the sport of discus modified to suit the local conditions - dried yak dung being the local resource. The Kamberchen games provided hilarious entertainment for the local yak herder spectators; which was fortunate as dung being thrown was exploding on and through their front doors. The closing ceremony took the form of the limbo with the flexible Nepalese leaving the westerners on their knees.

Performing the haka at Oktang, the southern base camp of Kangchenjunga Grant Newton The air seemed to warm as we strolled down to Ghunsa where we met a group of Kiwis being led by well-known mountaineer Colin Monteath. We then tackled the 2-day journey across a series of high passes to the Yalung Valley - the southern approach to Kangchenjunga.

The recent fine weather left the passes almost snow free, and with good acclimatisation the walk wasn’t too arduous, and the views were superb. Our horizons spanned from the formidable Jannu, to the world’s 5th highest peak, Makalu (8463 m) and finally through to a small bump just in sight, being the summit of the big one, Mt Everest (8850 metres).

The gentle slopes the Yalung Valley ensured a straightforward wander to the camp at Ramche, just short of the southern Kangchenjunga base camp. The temperatures by now were rather chilly with overnight lows dropping to 20 below. A fire lit by the porters offered some warmth, but I could only shiver as one hardy porter continued to walk barefoot. All that lay between us, and the border of Sikkim, was the Yalung glacier and the 7000 metre peaks of the Kabru range. It was from beside the glacier that we headed up to Oktang.

At 4800 metres, Oktang is represented by a chorten and prayer flags. From here a scree bash was required to reach an area where expeditions base themselves for the southern ascent of Tramping & Mountaineering 2003 Kangchenjunga. Although lower than the northern base camp this spot was no less spectacular with big peaks surround us an the base camp of Jannu just below us.

Such vistas did not urge any rush to return to the hot lowlands. The long return journey was punctuated with backward glances, revealing last glimpses of the mighty peaks. However the final leg of the journey provided again the cultural experiences and views of carved terraced hillsides lush with rice and other crops.

Smiling school children crammed window frames of their dark classrooms crying “Namaste”, amused with the novelty of westerners walking through their rarely trekked valley.

A drama-less flight took us from the beautiful mountains to the hot and quiet capital of Kathmandu where a public holiday provided us with a chance to re-acclimatise to the chaotic city life. Cries to sell hash, tiger balm and chess sets and honking horns would be back to full swing the next day.