Visiting Middle Earth

Visiting Middle Earth With two Lord of the Rings movies released, it was time for a WTMC group to head into one of the key scenes of Middle Earth and experience the grand landscapes. Mount Owen in Kahurangi National Park provided such The Mt Owen massif is a spectacular area, strangely underdeveloped in the DoC network of tracks and huts; it’s unique character providing a somewhat different tramping experience from other parts of New Zealand. While most trampers follow the standard route from Rolling River via Granity Pass, the medium/fit trip sought to make use of a 4-day Waitangi weekend to do a little more exploring of the region.

The long drive up a narrow winding gravel road had dropped us at another obscure part of the country, Tadmor. Across the road from our late night campsite lay a farmhouse, but the DoC sign promised a route to the tops. The clear felling of trees left a bare landscape in view initially but we soon entered the bush on a very good track, obviously having undergone recent maintenance. It wasn’t too long before we appeared on the very dry tops, and the summer sun beat down on us upon Conical Hill. In fact it was so dry the ground was almost white. It was good quick travel along the Hope Range and it was with some disappointment that we would have to Jack Stanton checks out the descent to Bulmer Lake Grant Newton Tramping & Mountaineering 2003 Grant Newton an experience, complete with a sighting of Gandalf.

descend off and bash through some scrubby bush down to the Dart River.

The route out of the stream was not obvious and after some time we took a punt. After only a few minutes of ugly scrub, we were opening out again and although some patches lay ahead, we had an obvious route up onto the Lookout Range. Walking higher the wind gathered momentum and the terrain became more dramatic, but the travel was reasonably straightforward. A sidle brought us onto a saddle separating the heads of Granity Creek and the Owen River. We were almost at Granity Pass but ahead lay the tricky bluffy section. Darkness was now nearing and weary legs were carefully placed, but after a steep traverse of a slip and a section or two of wire rope, Granity Pass was attained. Arriving in a hanging valley we camped immediately, approximately 1.5km from the hut, trying to capture the last of the sunlight.

Another day dawned fine and bright. Granity Pass hut was the first stop, barely having started. The

Andrew Chisholm overlooks the morning fog to the peaks of Nelson Lakes Grant Newton easy/medium group were moving on, so we drew water from the tank and followed suit. Ahead lay the open Mt Owen Plateau, easy tussock meadows and a maze of rocks blocking the summit of Kahurangi National Park’s highest point.

Beyond Sentinel Hill, spectacular tarns provided the ideal spot for a snack stop. By now the sun was hot and the feeling of summer was with us. Threading our way through the rocks proved interesting travel with fissures providing obstacles to be avoided. Under sunny, calm skies we stood on top of Mt Owen and ate lunch. The degree panorama was spectacular, the intermingling of rock and tussock lay beneath us, but to the south it looked like one intriguing maze, with rocky outcrops to weave between.

We picked a route west, easy to follow at times, trickier occasionally, but eventually we stood on a ridge and looked hundreds of metres steeply below to a lake with a grassy flat and a tent. This was to be our destination, Bulmer Lake. The scree descent was exhilarating and lengthy, but even with the prime campsite taken; we nestled into a great spot just in the bush and set about preparing dinner.

We leave behind the beautiful Bulmer Lake, shrouded in early morning mist. It is upwards and onwards to pierce the cloud and see the sights. Picking a route and following the occasional cairn, we break out of the mist and across the white blanket of cloud, lies Tramping & Mountaineering 2003 the peaks of Nelson Lakes. We thread our way between rocks; not knowing what lies ahead. The maze continues to keep us guessing, but we pop out as planned, into Captains Basin. It’s a lovely sheltered valley of smaller basins and tarns and we work our way to the head and up onto the ridge. Interesting rock formations greet us as we cross our path of yesterday afternoon. Down into Poverty Basin and skirting around the western flank of the plateau is our plan.

While the plan seems simple enough, the Mt Owen plateau may not display many contour lines on the map, but the natural maze created by rock outcrops keeps one guessing and this was to be out most interesting puzzle. While a few scouting missions were required we managed to find a way out west, skirting the eastern flank of Replica Hill to a sheltered spot for lunch, sheltered from the sun that is.

An hour on, its only 2pm and lunch has barely settled. A 20-minute walk away lies a cosy 6-bunk hut, no doubt occupied by other groups. We choose to stop at the base of Caulliford, and invest some spare time into an afternoon jaunt. Flys are pitched and before long, lazing in the tussock seems a good way waste away the afternoon. But alas the restlessness sets in.

The wind was blowing but without packs and on the eastern (leeward) side, we staggered up, an afternoon jaunt we think, sidling the tussock covered hillside, rocks abound. Ahead on the summit, set

On top of Billies Knob Grant Newton against the sky, is a group of 5 hobbits, the easy group we conclude. But at 4pm what are they doing heading the other way? Emerging onto the ridge, the wind blows stronger, the views still span wide and the peak of Patriarch stands clear and dominating the north-west view. Below us the easy group attempt to pick their way forward, in the distance the long flowing hair of Harry “Gandalf” Smith leads them in their quest. Yes, we are in Middle Earth!

As we wonder what lies ahead for Gandalf and the Hobbits, we look down to the Mt Owen plateau and a descent to a lovely tussock shrouded campsite on the leeward side of a hillock and an easy track out in the morning. The descent was along an exposed ridge, but the downhill direction made going straightforward.

Fed and ready for bed, I thought, camped on the leeward side of a hillock, but the wind screamed harder and harder. While camping on the tops is normally in tents, we were under flys. Asleep, I am then awoken as the fly flaps, the peg has been ripped out and we are almost ready for lift-off. Battening down the hatches, I try to sleep, occasionally drifting off, but more often I worry when that peg will pop.

The new day dawns bright and sunny without more than a gentle breeze. In fact the shade we gain by Tramping & Mountaineering 2003 descending beyond the hut is most welcome. We are now on the main track but the scramble up “The Staircase” gets us puffing and before long we arrive on a pass, the sun in full force and the easy/medium group enjoying a lazy time. But we are the medium/fits, and we cannot be seen to falter under a few rays of sunshine. To our right rears the face of Billies Knob. It’s a steep scramble, across smooth rock and amongst the tussock and spaniards but the views are stunning, spreading across the Mt Owen Plateau, from our first sight of the trip in the east to the route north to our final destination. To the west was the peak of Caulliford, looking imposing, but alas without Gandalf and the Hobbits atop. Fortunately there were trees at the pass and we scampered for these, the shade ensuring a pleasant lunch break.

Heading down a choice of tracks was offered, but alas it is the shady track we opt for to Courthouse Flat. The sun continued to beat down as we tackle a 5km dusty road bash to the car park and a bus. Upon arrival there was no Gandalf and there were no Hobbits. Had the Orcs captured them?

The group was Vvette Najbert, Paul Carter, Jack Stanton, Andrew Chisholm, Simon Ward and Grant Newton.