Two of the Best

Text taken from the club newsletter.

TWO OF THE BEST

Fine weather in the Tararuas by MILES LONG

During April and May two of us made a couple of short weekend tramps into the Tararuas which are worth recording simply because on neither one was it wet or windy. In fact on both trips we stayed pleasantly warm and dry the whole time.

The first was a pleasant weekend trip along Table Ridge. We had driven to the Kiriwakapapa Road end early on Saturday morning and set off up the track towards Blue Range. The climb is fairly easy and we were soon over the ridge and heading down to Cow Creek. A short stop at the hut for some food and drink then up the ridge towards Brockett.

The last time I had been here there was only a faint blazed trial but now there were DOC orange triangles to follow which made things very simple. We emerged from the bush into the tussock and were met by some light misty cloud drifting lazily across the ridge but which caused no problems to way-finding. We wandered easily along the ridge passing the mirror-calm tarn before the final climb to Brockett. From here was a short step to Girdlestone and then another hop to Tarn Ridge Hut for the night.

We had no particular plans for the next day but eventually decided to get back to the road end via Mitre. So on a clear and mild Sunday we headed back over Girdlestone and up to the summit of Mitre. We stopped here for a while taking in the wonderful 360 degree view before heading straight down to the Waingawa River following the spur between North Mitre Stream and Peggy’s Stream.

At first the travel was through easy open snowgrass meadows but getting through the scrub above the bush proved to be a little bit of a bash. Once in the bush the travel was mostly straightforward but to stay on the crest of the winding spur required a good bit of concentration. Soon enough we emerged onto the track above the Waingawa just upstream from the junction with Peggy’s Stream but for a few minutes we couldn’t find a way down to the riverbed itself. We had to wander along the edge of the bank for a while to find a place where we could climb down swinging from the branches of a couple of spindly tress clinging to the steep drop.

We crossed the river here and then headed directly up the other side towards Te Mara. To start with the bush was open and easy going but higher up there were many windfalls on the spur that made for slow travel. We wanted to be on the Blue Range track before dark so we didn’t stop until we reached the crest of the ridge just below the highest point. We could take a break here as it was simply a short drop to the track somewhere just below us.

We only made it a little way down the track before needing head torches but from here it was an easy enough wander out to the road end in the soft warmth of the evening with the only sounds those of the gently babbling streams we passed and the moreporks calling from across the valley.

The second trip was to repeat a tramp I had only done once before up Pakihore Ridge. We drove to the Otaki Forks road end early on Saturday morning and wandered easily up to Fields Hut then Table Top. The track down to Penn Creek was simple enough and we were soon sitting on the grassy flat next to the hut enjoying the warmth of the sunshine.

After our lunch we crossed Penn Creek and headed up towards the crest of Pakihore Ridge itself. The last time I had been here there was no easy track to follow but now, as for the first trip, there were DOC triangles to mark the way. We plodded our lazy way up the ridge in no hurry and as we got higher we watched the sun slowly setting behind us. We carried four litres of water for our evening meal and the next day’s breakfast so we could stop just anywhere we found a flat spot.

Right on the top of Point 1088 turned out to be the ideal place for our tent. We sat outside and cooked our tea as the light slowly faded from the sky and the first stars appeared between the branches of the gnarly lichen covered trees. It was a calm evening and warm enough to leave the tent door unzipped for the night.

The next morning was fine and sunny again with some light misty cloud pouring gently between the peaks from the east and drifting into the western valleys before evaporating away leaving a clear deep blue sky. We packed our gear and started up the final remaining slopes of bush then tussock to reach the Southern Main Range. Here it was sunny and warm and we could stroll along the ridge without a worry in the world.

As we dipped into the saddles between the peaks we passed through the mist flowing from the cloud-covered Wairarapa and we were followed by a very bright Brocken Spectre and fogbow. These are not often seen and we were fascinated to have them appear each of the many times we dropped below the cloud level.

We climbed into the sunshine again heading up to Bridge Peak where there was a surprising number of snow patches remaining from an early winter cold spell a week or so before. We found some snow-free grass on a north-facing slope and lay out in the last warmth of the sun sheltered from the gentle southerly breeze for a late lunch. Three others who we could see following us along the ridge joined us here and as we ate we swapped the usual tall tales of past Tararua trips we had done and future ones we still had to do.

The walk down Fields Track was one we had done so many times before but it is always pleasant enough when the weather is fine and the sun is still shining on the Tasman Sea beyond Kapiti Island. And this time we even made it back to the road end well before needing to find our way using our head torches.

So ended two of the best short trips into the local hills we had done for some time. While the Tararuas can mostly be wet and windy with many tramps turning into more of a survival exercise than a fun day out, when they are at their best there is some magnificent mountain scenery that must surely satisfy the most discerning tramper—even us.

ABOVE: Goblin forest and setting sun on Pakihore Ridge

LEFT: Heading towards Mitre from Brockett

PREVOIUS: Brocken Spectre and glory, and a fogbow. Southern Main Range