External Angle Ridge

EXTERNAL ANGLE RIDGE by PAUL CHRISTOFFEL Q uoin Ridge is part of the catchment zone which today supplies half the water in the Wellington urban area. For several decades it was prohibited to trampers, although many no doubt ignored the ban. In the early 1990s the restriction was reduced to a ban on camping within the zone. Since then WTMC has run regular trips that traverse this southern Tararua ridge, including one last September.

Tampers normally head down the ridge but for transport co-ordination reasons we went up it. The easymedium group dropped us at the Kaitoke waterworks information centre. From there we had a one hour twenty minute slog over a four-wheel drive track to Hutt Forks. David and Weimin were doing a medium-fit trip so soon took the lead and disappeared into the distance.

From Hutt Forks Debbie led us across a swing bridge and along a sidle track that avoids the Eastern Hutt River gorge. We headed up to the high point of the track, from which a ground trail takes you up towards Quoin Ridge. Although the route wasn’t always obvious the travel was easy and eventually we emerged onto the ridge. We’d started at a pretty low altitude and after a 450 metre climb we were still only at 700 metres. We then headed almost due north and emerged onto the tops at around 950 metres. Substantial fires in the 1930s had destroyed much of the high forest which explains the low bush line.

Being a water catchment this was Greater Wellington Regional Council territory. Council staff at some point had placed route markers to try and ensure trampers followed a defined route thereby minimising damage to the regenerating bush. The sign said it was to protect fragile plants but there was nothing fragile about the plants we encountered. They tore at our legs, especially those of Sarah, who was gaiterless.

It was a warm sunny day and an open clearing looked like a great spot for a break so we settled in for a long lunch. We could hear David and Weimin talking not far away but the thick shrubbery made them impossible to see. The voices soon subsided—they had obviously finished lunch and moved on. We eventually followed suit, heading for the peak marked ‘Quoin’ on the map, which means (according to Mr Google) ‘an external angle of a wall or building’. Shortly after the peak the ridge takes a sharp turn east and I presume this sharp bend gave the ridge its name.

The ridge drops 100 metres from Quoin, always very frustrating for trampers. Heading east we were exposed to the full brunt of the strengthening north-westerly wind so we donned jackets for the rest of the day. The going got tough as we fought our way through thick shrub and over rough ground. Our legs were further scratched and Debbie got an impressively bloody cut. It was slow going and we were getting cold. Sharon later realised she was probably getting mildly hypothermic. She was certainly struggling and was eventually persuaded to put on more clothes. By that stage we were back on the open tops and travel was a lot easier. Finally we arrived at the top of Alpha—at 1,361 metres the high point of our trip. We had climbed 1,100 metres from Hutt forks and it had been a tough day. Daylight saving had yet to arrive so the light was fading as we headed down the last stretch to Alpha Hut.

David and Weimin had quickly realised their initial aim of getting to Elder Hut was way too ambitious, and were in Alpha and had the fire going when we arrived. Sadly a leaky skylight left the floor covered in water so heating the hut was a challenge. After unpacking and changing we had a latish dinner—a huge and yummy pasta meal. Shortly after dinner we crawled into our sleeping bags and gradually drifted into a well-earned sleep.

On Sunday morning snow coated the ground and trees around the hut. However, it wasn’t cold—at least not with all the gear we were wearing. We were heading for the Waiohine Road end via Bull Mound and Cone Hut. First we had to go through Hell’s Gate which, given the lack of wind, didn’t live up to its name.

I always enjoy going over Bull Mound. Although it’s only 1,000 metres up the mound is largely picturesque alpine top country. The snow covering was an added bonus although it made route finding a bit tricky in the swirling cloud. From Bull Mound we had a long steep drop to the Tauherenikau River. Sarah, having recently taken up trail running took the lead. I must admit the minimal climbing on this second day was a welcome relief. We were having fun.

Debbie had been a bit nervous about the river crossing, given recent rain but it wasn’t too bad. We did, however, head downstream to avoid the swift and deep bits. We decided to lunch in a sunny spot near the river rather than heading to Cone Hut, although the sun soon disappeared. From there it was an uneventful trip back to the impressive bridge over the Waiohine River. The easy-mediums had left the club van in the car park for their walk out to Kaitoke via Tutuwai Hut. The weather had long cleared by the time we got to Kiwi Ranch to pick them up. They had arrived only 10 minutes earlier, accompanied by David and Weimin, who had gone out via Marchant Ridge. (Being medium-fits, they wanted to avoid the humiliation of doing the same trip as us mediums).

It was lovely and sunny as we waited for the others to get changed and load their gear for the drive back. The trip had been a lot more challenging than we expected, but it was great to get into a different part of the Tararuas. We felt immensely satisfied with our weekend on the drive back to Wellington. Debbie pronounced it the best trip she had led.

Punters: Debbie Buck, Sharon Bradford, Sarah Fisher, Paul Christoffel