Mt Ruapehu

MT RUAPEHU A club Medium Alp 1 trip by DEBBIE BUCK A t the Turoa carpark we exchanged Saturday morning pleasantries with Simon, Lorraine and Elizabeth (from NZAC), before they set off up to Girdlestone. Some of us continued pfaffing around for a bit until we set off about 8:30 am. The snow was firm, the sky was clear, the day was windless and we walked briskly without crampons or heavy packs up the empty ski runs.

Soon, after a few steeper ascents of empty ski runs, we were at the point where it was time for crampons. The summit profile of Tahurangi and its ascent route, towering above and looking like the crest of a tsunami wave about to break were visible and beckoning. We confidently strode off the ski runs and upwards towards the Skyline Ridge. Every now and again we looked around behind us to see if Spencer and his group were closely following behind—but alas they were held up in the chairlift queues at the bottom of the mountain!

As we walked higher Tony and Katy took turns at making steps in the icy surface for the rest of us to follow. We admired the sastrugi, the views to Girdlestone and occasionally turned round and saw Taranaki on the horizon. The going was pretty straightforward and soon we reached the narrow part of the ridge just before the summit of Tahurangi (2,797 m). On the summit the views were fantastic in all directions, and many photos were taken. The wind had risen, so we put on some layers. We looked over at Girdlestone but couldn’t see the ALP2 Mikes or the Simon, Lorraine and Elizabeth group climbing it. Tony did a reccy for descent routes but some were a bit too ALP2ish for us! So we retraced our steps back along the ascent ridge for a while—passing Spencer’s group as they ascended. I’m sure they thanked us for our step-cutting!

We dropped off the ridge and sidled along to a wee saddle below the summit of Tahurangi. Katy had succumbed to an annoying sickness and was being helped down to safety at the café by Stephen. So Tony took the lead—and here things got a wee bit exposed. Tony found a nice near-vertical decent route down to the crater plateau, which was perfect for facing into the snow, practicing our foot placement/front-pointing, using the pick of our ice-axes and testing my exposure comfort level. Rugged up against the wind, I was in my own sauna as I slowly and methodically front pointed my way down the sun-blasted face. Tony wasn’t far away, giving expert instructions and encouragement.

Nearby, Rebecca was descending and giving a running commentary about the high drama unfolding at the base—something along the lines of (allowing for artistic licence and mere embellishment) —Mike was chasing his helmet as it rolled freely and ever closer to the crater lake. But wait, the helmet stopped, and relieved, so did Mike. But, a playful gust of wind from off-field sent the helmet and Mike on their merry ways again. The brief rest had given Mike his second wind, and moments before the helmet catapulted over bluffs Mike made a dive and latched onto the clip of the helmet, saving it in the nick of time from certain dissolution in the waters (of unknown pH) of the crater lake. Not even the mid-dive misplacement of crampons ripping his overpants and making deep gashes in his left calf muscle could make Mike relinquish his grip on the helmet (ok— that last sentence is artistic licence).

Warm and hungry Mike and I made it to the lunch spot fresh from our individual adventures. I was glad to have a break and lunch on flatter ground. Mike carefully sequestered his helmet before he tucked into lunch.

Paretetaitonga (2,751 m), or Pare, our next summit for the weekend, was visible about 1.5 km away. We set off across the plateau and shortly afterwards Stephen appeared. So we all continued, passing in and out of the Pare shadow, to approach it via the SE ridge. At the col just before the final steep crux of the ascent we stopped in the shade and strong wind to strategize the approach. I was out of energy and so were a few others. Brendan and Tony pressed on to the summit while the rest of us descended back along the ridge to wait in the sun and the calm of the plateau. Mike kept his helmet on his head this time. Tony and Brendan arrived soon after with tall tales of deep crevasses and carnivorous GM yeti (ok, sculptural sastrugi was about it, but they did also mention the views of Taranaki) on the summit of Pare. Another snack break in the sun before we descended back towards the ski field. The sidling, beneath Ruapehu, seemed to drag on and on, and my right (downside) shins were feeling it! I was glad for the sun and the clear views to take my mind off my wobbly ankles. Eventually we made it to the ski field as the last of the skiers were dashing down the slopes. By this point my slow pace gave me the chance to appreciate the dramatic cloudscape enhanced by the setting sun.

Back at the van we met up with Katy (much revived) and joined the crawl of vehicles down the mountain. Weary but exhilarated by the day’s alpine adventures we showered, devoured chilli con carne and drifted off to sleep—some of us had energy reserves for watching rugby at the pub, but I’d had enough sport for one day!

Revived after a good sleep, we set off to the Mangatepopo road end early on Sunday morning. The plan was for a group to ascend Ngauruhoe and another group to ascend Tongariro. The ALP2 Mikes had joined us for the day.

Lead by Tony, Team Tongariro (Tony, Katy, Mike P, Rebecca, Mike Travers, Weimin and Debbie) followed a few large groups snaking up on the Tongariro Crossing track and soon reached the saddle between Tongariro and Ngauruhoe. After snacking and de-layering to adjust to the sunny day, we set off past the South Crater, walking in snow without crampons until we reached the ridge leading up to the Red Crater. Here, with a mass of other groups we put on our crampons and admired the views— the contrast of the red rocks and snow, the vistas towards the east and up to Ngauruhoe.

To have a sense of solitude we set off ahead of the other groups and made quick progress up to the turnoff to Tongariro. We had a few minutes to spare so we detoured up to the end of the ridge overlooking the Emerald Lakes. As Tony had promised the views were astounding— Lake Taupo glistened in the sun, the fuming Te Mari volcano, the barren and rocky eastern slopes toward the Desert Road, and of course Ngauruhoe. Our solitude was soon shared with some other trampers who were surreptitiously trying to light birthday candles on a cake and keep them lit in the wee breeze before the birthday girl arrived. When she did we took photos for them as the surprised and delighted birthday girl blew out the candles, assisted by the breeze.

Keeping to our schedule we headed back and started the not-so-gruelling ascent to Tongariro. We gained 99 m altitude in about 1.5 km to reach the summit at 1,967 m. With oodles of time we took silly photos on the summit and lunched just below the top while enjoying the sun and scenery. Without sighting Team Ngauruhoe (Stephen, Mike S, Brendan, Mauriusz), we set off down and across to the long ridge that ran alongside Mangatepopo stream. Soon it was time to take off our crampons, de-layer again, and switch out of John Wayne walking mode to tramping. Across the scoria on a good foot pad we breezed! Tony started to mention a surprise at the end of the ridge and despite much guessing by the rest of us, he wasn’t divulging what it was though.

About 3 pm we saw Team Ngauruhoe on the Tongariro Crossing track. That was good, we’d probably get back simultaneously. We started to descend off the end of the ridge into scrub, which got thicker and taller. But the

ABOVE: Mike T plods back up the slope after wasting most of his lunch break retrieving his helmet that slid away just a little bit faster than he could catch it.

LEFT: Descending the side of a gully on the way back down from the summit.

PREVIOUS: Katy Glenie on Tahurangi, the higest peak of Mt Ruapehu.

surprise lured us forward, across one scrubby creek and then into more scrub. There seemed to be a big drop into the next creek, and Katy and Mike P decided to take an alternate descent. Stephen (from Team Ngauruhoe) came down to the creek to guide us. I backed off one descent, and went back a few meters to try another way down— when unexpectedly I grabbed hold off a slimy length of rope dangling down the cliff—I had found Tony’s surprise!

But I chose not to slide down it and reverted back to a variant of my first-tried descent route. Across the knee-deep creek, I grumbled about wet boots at the end of the day, and grovelled my way up the scrubby bank, ABOVE: Weimin heads towards the summit of Tongariro. Ngauruhoe behind.

followed closely by Stephen.

We then hunted around in the scrub for Stephen’s pack, which he had dumped somewhere before coming to our aid in the creek. Soon it was found. But not such good luck for Mike P whose crampons had fallen off his pack en-route.

Back at the carpark we thanked Stephen for leading two awesome days of alpine fun, took one final look at Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro and left for Wellington.

Stephen Healey (leader), Tony Gazley, Mike Travers, Brendan Eckert, Weimin, Mauriusz, Rebecca Hayter, Katy Glenie, Debbie Buck.