California Dreaming

California D r e a m i n g by KatY GLENIE with Mike Phethean The world’s largest tree, Jack Keroac, Flower Power, the Summer of Love, Harvey Milk, the fortune cookie. California is a state that overflows with ideas, energy, and… climbing destinations! What’s not to like?

A s Mike and I tossed around options for our next overseas adventure, it quickly became clear that the Golden State was going to come out on top. It didn’t take long to convince ourselves that it was in fact “on the way home” from our annual UK trip to visit family.

After a quick few days in England to sample the UK summer (very similar to the UK winter), we were jetting off to San Francisco. I was beyond excited. So much to see, to absorb, to eat! Our two short days in the city included the amazing Coit Tower murals, the aptly named Exploratorium, the gastronomic delights of the Ferry Building and the time-travelling Musée Mécanique. All too soon we were on the road in our rental, heading east to the Sierra Nevada. We stopped off on the way to visit ex WTMC member Rini and her husband Brandon, who lent us heaps of really useful equipment and gave us some good trip ideas.

The drive to Yosemite was long, hot and uneventful. We made it in time to cruise the “Valley” before nightfall, stopping to take snaps of the iconic Half Dome and El Capitan. However, August is not a time of peace and serenity in Yosemite. There were people simply everywhere, and our little kiwi souls began to feel claustrophobic. Fortunately our pre-booked campsite (which we snapped up after a lucky last minute cancellation) was located in a quieter corner of the Park. We dutifully took note of the bear-briefing, and stuffed everything with the slightest whiff of bear-tucker into our personal bear locker. Yep, that includes soap, deodorant, your half-eaten muesli bar, and ideally your partner (if they will fit comfortably).

Fortunately the next day in Yosemite proved far more successful on the serenity front. We found a great climbing spot off the Tioga Pass Rd (only open for three months in summer). It overlooked Tenya Lake, and had some reasonable options for us. It was no mean feat to find something that we could actually climb. A bit of searching lead us to a solid crack system (“holdless horrors”), and we enjoyed an excellent multipitch climb with brilliant views over the lake. The sound of rattle snakes chased us off the summit – we weren’t keen for any close encounters.

Yosemite is often called the birthplace of rock-climbing, and the num-

Tenya Lake - View from climbing summit Ranger Lake ber of climbing spots in the valley is seemingly endless. However, it’s not really a place for entry-level climbing. Bolts are used sparingly, and generally for climbs with long run-outs and no natural protection. Grades are notoriously “sandbagged”, meaning it may be graded as a nice easy 15, but it’s actually more like a 17 or 18. The granite rock provides excellent friction, and good crack systems, but it takes a while to get used to the minimal holds.

After our quick retreat from the rattlers, we set off on a long drive south to Lodgepole Campground in Sequoia National Park. After inhaling a dehy dinner at our campsite we collapsed with relief in to our sleeping bags at 11pm. There were many things that were wonderful about our trip. Travelling by car was not one of them. All too often we would find ourselves driving big distances between destinations late in the day. Choosing the right spot on a six lane highway, sandwiched between interstate “haulers” travelling at the speed of light, knowing that if you miss this exit you’re in for a long detour, and all on the wrong side of the road (and often an empty stomach). It’s not a recipe for travelling bliss.

Mike was up early the next morning to sort out some logistics around our hiking permit while I caught up on some extra zeds. Then we were off on our five-day adventure in the Park. Our first campground was on the shores of Ranger Lake. The route included a lunch-stop at the picturesque Twin Lakes, and a decent climb over Silliman Pass (3,194m – higher than Mt Aspiring!) Despite now being in the wilderness, each designated campsite had it’s own bear locker. The lockers are incredibly effective – the area seems to have had very few bear problems since their introduction. The old method of “counter-balancing” by hanging food over a tree-branch no longer works in these high-use areas. Bears are pretty clever when they’re hungry.

Our second day was a long hot walk through some pretty uninteresting pine forest. We cooled off our aching feet at each creek crossing and were pleased to see the campsite and rangers station at Roaring River. We had met the Ranger earlier as she passed on horseback wearing her classic National Park Ranger Hat.

Deadman’s Canyon was the destination for the next day. I was particularly uninspired– it sounded like the sort of place where people may have, umm, died? Although we did pass the gravesite of one Alfred Moniere, Shepherder and Mountain Main (died 1887), the area was incredibly beautiful. It’s the sort of place I’d be happy spending the end of my days. The valley was full of wildflowers and leafy aspens, fed by a clear, cool river. We camped with an excellent view of the upcoming pass and were treated to a pretty special sunset.

Our ascent over Elizabeth Pass was slow due to its altitude of 3,475m. On route we were entertained by marmots poking their heads out of rock fields, and lizards and small grass snakes slithering quickly away to safety. The views from the saddle were incredible and stretched for miles - the long climb was well worth it. Our descent to Bearpaw Meadow was steep and taxing on the knees. We Climbing to Elizabeth Pass made good use of the river to cool off at each rest-stop.

Our final day bought us on to the well-used High Sierra Trail. We tried not to look dismissively at a daypacked family of four whose gear had been carried by mule to the next campsite. Mule transport is a common option, unfortunately leading to quite a bit of trail poop. However, the views and the wildlife more than make up for it. The highlight of the morning was watching an adult bear and her cub decimate a rotten tree in the hunt for food. From a safe distance we were able to see the true strength of these awesome beasts.

We arrived back at our car around midday and headed south through the Park’s famous Sequoia Trees. These impressive trees live for over 3,000 years, growing bark almost a meter thick as insulation from fire. The General Sherman Tree is said to be the largest living tree on earth at 84 metres high and 1385 tonnes. Sequoias grow naturally only in this area, and were protected in 1890 as part of America’s second national park. This was no mean feat. The environmental movement was very much in its infancy at this stage, and it was primarily due to the inspirational work of John Muir that the park was established. Muir was an early advocate for the preservation of wilderness areas, and his emotive writings and speeches helped to permanently protect Yosemite Valley, Sequoia National Park and other parts of the Seirra Nevada from environmental destruction.

After some more adventures, including climbing Mt Whitney with Rini and Brandon (Whitney is the USA’s highest peak outside of Alaska), travelling through Death Valley (113°F – we barely left the car!), living it up in Las Vegas, and visiting Alcatraz, we headed back home, tired but contented.

Post Script: Our trip was well-timed – a few weeks later the area was ravaged by bush fires as a result of California’s four year drought. Many of the places we’d visited were closed or at high-risk, and the views we’d experienced had disappeared in clouds of smoke. Bush fires have been part of this eco-system for thousands of years, and many local species rely on fire for regeneration. So we hope that the area will slowly recover and revive, ready to take on the next influx of keen kiwi trampers and climbers!

Granite cliffs above Deadmans Canyon