Mt Ngaruahoe

Machine-read text (unproofread)

Read from the scans by software, so it contains mistakes. Typing it up properly would help blind readers: use Suggest an edit.

MT. NGARTAHOE. Saturday, October 22nd., 1949. 1.30p.m. On the slopes of Mt. Ngaruahoe. The weather is bad, thick mist making visibility nil. We are following up what we presune to be the new lava flow So started the first entry in my trip diary of the ascent of Mt. Ngaruahoe. The nist was so bad that all the way from the Chateau to Mangatepopo Hut we had seen nothing, nothing save the closely spaced snow poles. We followed them for six miles across a monotonous expanse of covered country, by sparse snow grass and scarred by dried up creeks. As to the whereabouts of Ngaruahoe we could only guess. Johnny Robinson and I reached Mangatepopo Hut just after 11.30a.m. and found a number of shooters from Auckland in residence. We lunched and they supplied us with a welcone brew before we started out. At ten minutes past twelve we left the hut and started for the mountain. Overhead the mist cleared spasmodically giving us brief glimpses of blue skies above. From the start the climbing was not easy. Loose rocks, sharp as razors, tipped beneath our feet naking balance difficult. Our first objective was to find the lava flow ejected by the last eruption. le did this after some little trouble and found it to be three and four feet above the level of the scoria which we were climbing. In places it was higher and took many fantastic and weird shapes. In colour it reninded ne of clay. We stopped for a rest at 1.30, the going was tough. The mist showed no sign of clearing permanently, though twice it had broken sufficiently for us to see the summit. Spurred on by this we attacked the 45 degree slopes with new vigor. Beneath our feet rocks tipped and gave way. in other patches it was like being on a shinglo slide. Four steps given for one. Another brief rest then on againa We were nearing the top. The clouds were beneath us and S tretched for niles like a gigantic sea of ice. This. nist, however, was still with us though not as bad as below. Mt. Ruapehu exposed her snow clad summit to us from a blanket of clouds. : 3p.Mo The summit of Mt. Ngaruchoe. From where I am standing I can unfortunately see very little - because of the mist. At times it clears revealing the summit of Ruapehu to us. The smell of sulphur is terrific. Clouds of it are being blown around us by th: strong southerly wind. In a few minutes we will nake our way round the ridge of the crater to the highest peak.... Three hours from Mangatepopo to the top of Ngeruahoe was our tine. Visibility was restriated at the beginning but inproved as we climbed higher about the 6,0001 mark. As the summit is neared the larger rocks give way to snaller ones which only need pressure on them to start a slides not a big slide but large enough to bring curses and

C make hard work. Going around the crater e passed below a rock outcrop from under which clouds of sulphur were being emitted. In the fissure the colour was of deup yellow, almost gold, giving way to light yellow as it furthered from the heat. On the Southern face of the mountain was a layer of snow and ice. Some chaps who clinbed from that side had to wear crampons. We net them just as we were starting off down to the hut. The loose scoria - hich we cursed on the way up turned out to be a great help on the descent. We left the top about 4 o'clock and arrived back at the hut about six. During that time the mist cleared enough at times for us to see Lake Taupo to the North and the desert to the South. Sunday October 23rd., 1949. 1.50p.m. Have just stopped for lunch overlooking the creter of Mt. Ruapehu. Weat ther perfect. Will be starting back shortly... Sunday was better than the day previous and we seized the opportunity of climbing Mt. Ruapehu. Ve made our way over snow which was not difficult, mainly because we used the steps of a few bods ahead - Remember, Stan? Once at the top however we saw a beautiful sight. From the lake in the crater steam was rising and caught by the wind was whirled into fantastic shapes. The wind, in exposed positions, was cold and biting. Johnny and 1 had unfortunately been late in starting and time did not permit us to go round to the summit. Johnny however climbed Parnetetaitunga As he neared the top of the peak mist started to blow in and the last I saw of him he was putting on crampons. At 3p.mo he appeared like a shadow from the mist and we descended together by way of the glacier to Salt Hut and thence back to the notor campo Monday, October Ath., 19490 Coming down from Ruapehu I was over-awed by Pinnacle Ridge and vowed that some day I would climb it and make a traverse. Hearing Phil Gardner (and seeing him) on one of the Pinnacles singing "This is the story of a starry night" I also prophesied it would not be with him. Mainly because of the singing. How right and how wrong I was to be. By some means which I cannot even now remember I was persuaded by both Johnny and Phil - I wanted to go ski-ing - to "have a go". Diana Collings was to be the fourth member of the party. As I remember we left Salt Hut about 9.20 (open to correction) and headed for the first pinnacle. We climbed to the snow line where Johnny and I roped up and left Phil and Di. We headed for the top of the first pinnacle while they continued to the second. At the top we could see very little due to the mist which periodically blew up. Phil and Di were below us waiting so ve made our way back and followed their steps. To get to them we had to follow our steps back and continue on from where we had left themo From the first pinnacle to the second a ticklish outcrop was encountered. How the t o ahead got round I do not know. What I do know, however, is that next time (Keen aren't you Keith? I Ed.) I go around there I will not have an ice-axe in my hand. Johnny followed me a little faster and together we rested where Phil and Di. had before us. They had gone on, and from then on were one pinnacle ahead of us. In places the ridge is nade very dangerous by loose rock and all care and precaution must be taken. From the second to the third pinnacle Johnny had a ticklish moment but things soon improved. Unfortunately it started to rain about this time and the rope was getting hard to handle. We caue down off the third pinnacle at rather a good pace and followed the other's steps down towards the glacier. In one part we had an opportunity to try a bit of glissading. Ks we came down the glacier the snowwas soft and we continually sank to our knees. Te arrived back at Salt Hut about 4p.m. and the motor camp at n arly half pasto I wish to thank Stan for holding the truck up.(What, all by myself? - Ed.) I appreciated it very much. Also thanks to Phil for all the help he gave me. Keith Durrant.