Waiatoto - Dart

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WAIATOTO-DART Our luck was out right from the start. to where he could drag it on a trailer The ferry, falling behind on its heavy to take back to his hut and clean the Christmas schedule, left Wellington at engine out. 11 p.m. on a fine calm night. Three We camped on someone's lawn, the hours late already and our Mt. Cook only clear flat area in the district apart bus left Christchurch at 8.15 in the from the road. Cyril said it would probmorning. We'll make it up. easy, we told ably be all right to camp there, and ourselves, this thing can fair move when later during the night, someone else arit needs to. rived and said it would be all right We missed our bus, the Maori only and hoped we would enjoy the mos- "moved enough" to gain one hour on quitos. The mosquitos ate us that night the lost time. Howcver, as there were and the heat kept us from hiding in ten aboard who wished to catch the our pits, so we covered our heads with bus the purser contacted the Mount whatever we had and lay listening to Cook Co., who agreed to supply two the drone of a thousand tiny wings. cars for the chase. At the wharf we We were up at first sandfly bite next loaded the gear aboard two white Chev morning and after breakfast moved Impalas, usually chartered rich tour- around to Cyril's to see how the boat ists, and we were off after bhe bus. The was coming along. When it was finally high speed chase that followed was cleared out Cyril went down to launch worth the extra $2 it cost us. Speedo it while we leaned on the Waiatoto needles stayed in the 80's and 90's for bridge and talked to an old Maori about most of the way and one car topped whitebait, shooting, rifles, tramping and 100 on the run down into Tekapo. We watched the incoming tide push the river caught the bus at Pukaki with 25 min- back. Then we heard the roar of the enutes to spare. gine starting and a few minutes later The next problem occured in Haast the first four of our trip were on their where we discovered that our jet boat way. contact was away in Christchurch and One hour later we were in trouble that no one new much about our ar- again. The boat was loaded up for the rangements. Finally we were told that second trip but the battery was too flat the joker in the last hut down by the to turn the engine. We dragged up an- Waiatoto bridge might be able to help other old battery and tried that, then us. At the Waiatoto bridge we fought tried both together, but no go. Cvril our way through sandflies, dogs. a goat finally sent his wife off to Haast to pick and a line of damp washing to a cara- up a fresh battery and we settled down van where we were met by a grey to wait once again. She returned after haired, bearded Maori who thought about an hour and a half, having had Cyril down the track had a boat and a puncture to deal with on the way. The if we'd come with him he'd take us new battery was linked up and finallv down there. We went down with the we were away. Cyril dropped us off dogs, the goat and the sandflies to find about eight miles the river where that Cyril's wife knew about the ar- we had a quick feed found the track rangement but he didn't. Anyway he'd and staggered on to the first hut two take us about nine miles up the river hours away, where the previous boatwhen he returned from early shooting. load had camp set up and some venison We were lucky he said, he had just got wlich Murray had just shot. the boat back in the water after some The next day's travel took us through repair work. alternating bush and river flat, for most We put on our packs and went off to part good going, as in the past cattle search for a campsite. There's our boat had been driven up the river and a we joked. as we crossed the bridge and reasonable track was still evident in the saw the bones of a sunken craft stick- bush. One short gorge enforced a rough ing out of the water. It was our boat. bouldery sidle through bush, as the river, The bow had been moored too high on swollen by late and heavy snow, was the bank and the stern had dipped under far too big to contemplate a crossing. on the receding tide and filled up as Two large tributaries, the Te Naihi and the side came in. We got onto the dry the Drake, were crossed easily on good end of the rope and hauled the boat out shingle bottom, and as the light mist of the water, bailed it out and then went turned to rain we sighted Drake Hut our to set up camp while Cyril poled the hoochie for the night. boat down river in the gathering dusk Heavy rain gave way to showers and

MEATSHOOTER'S HUT. Photo by Murray Brown. sunshine by morning and when, after where we camped for the night. two hours travel, we reached Donald Hut Soon after leaving camp next mornthe last in the valley, the weather ing we got our first view of Aspiring, was definitely on the improve. At Don- remote and cool in the early sunlight. ald Hut we met the resident meatshooter, The Waiatoto, rising from the melt of Cliff, who fed us on toast and bacon the Volta and Therma glaciers, would and told us funny stories about parties probably be the only river which who passed through hoping to climb out a complete view of Aspiring, from gives the at the head of the valley, and returned moraine and lakes of the valley head several days later, sadder and wiser, with through vertical walls, hanging icefalls tales of vertical cliffs guarding the and neve snow to the rock ribs and snow glaciers of Aspiring. We spent several cone of the summit. hours with Cliff, talking, eating, brewing, smoking his tailor made durries The salubrious travel was over now and hauling in a load of firewood, be- and bush terraces above the river rapidly fore we dragged ourselves away from became steep slopes with scrub and his offers of a feed of venison, crossed second growth thickening until we were to the true left of the river and made forced down to the waters edge. The our way to the end of the last flat river rose steeply here through a jumble of large boulders and we were able to mauvais pas we had only a snow plug boulder hop for a couple of miles be- to reach the top of the ridge and a fore being forced back into the scrub. steep descent onto the vast plateau of We were above the bushline now and the Volta neve where we pitched camp the scrub was a veritable heat trap as after a nine hour day. Now that we we cursed and sweated our way up a could see the top of the tongue of the long moraine ridge. The summit of the Volta we realised that this would have ridge gave us a view of what looked been the best way up, perhans the only like three or four more hours of bash- way up if it had not been for the ing over scrub covered moraine, but heavy snow which afforded us our route our despair turned to elation as we through the slabs. The avalanches, which descended to the river and rounded a were the main danger, all appeared to corner to find the valley opened into fall into a huge gap. between the glacier a large snowgrass covered flat. We and the rock wall instead of sweeping camped on this flat, nine hours travel the glacier as we had previously supfrom the last bush flat down river. The posed. surroundings of this camp were truly Our plans now were to sidle under impressive, the flat floor of the valley Aspiring to reach Colin Todd Hut at being almost totally ringed by vertical the bottom of the north-west ridge. From walls topped with snow and blue ice and our new vantage point on the Volta this cut by waterfalls which fell sheer until route looked extremely uninviting. We they were feathered into vapour by the would have to cross a steep band of snow wind. without any margin of error, A slip There appeared to be only two pos- would almost certainly end in a thousand sible routes out of the head, the first foot fall with no bounces on the way, up a tongue of the Volta glacier which A bulge of snow leading onto the Upper cut down a large ledge angling across Therma appeared exceedingly steep and the cliffs at the head of the valley and had the same vertical drop beneath it. crossed under the hanging icefall of the After a preliminary rècce by Noel and Therma to end in a steep cone of snow Tony we decided we would have to reaching down into the moraine around spend a whole day sorting out the the terminal lake. The second was up route and plugging steps around it bea Iong slope of broken rock which ap- fore we could attempt it with heavy peared to lead up to the ridge along the packs. But this was not to be. Morning edge of the Volta. Allen, Noel and Tony showed us a thick layer of cloud level set off to recce the route while the with the top of Aspiring and we derest of us put up tents and collected cided to get off the glacier before the scrub for the fire. The advance party re- weather packed in. After gaining the turned that evening to report that the glacier we certainly weren't going back rock slide was cut off at the top by a into the Waiatoto so we looked at the line of slabs but a steep ledge right maps for an alternative route. Moncrieff at the head of the valley gave way to col leading into the Kitchener branch of snow which possibly led through the the East Matukituki appeared to be the slabs and onto the glacier The route best choice. That must be it over there, up the tongue of the Volta was be- we said, looking towards a gently sloping constantly bombed by avalanches ing col only a few hundred feet above and because we would be unable to see the glacier. Our troubles had started how it went until we were halfway up again. we decided on the ledge route. We packed up and a two hour slog across the glacier brought us to the top Next morning, with the weather fair of the col. The cloud layer had started once more, we sidled round the ter- to thin now and the heat from the sun minal lakes and set off up our ledge. We. turned the vast neve into a reflecting gained height quickly on steep slopes toaster. A quick look down the other of short snowgrass, stopping occasionally side of the col showed an impossible to set Chamois moving with a few blasts jumble of bluffs and steep snow which from the riflles. Lunch was had at the convinced us that this was not Monfirst of the snow and two recce teams crieff col. (We found out later it was roped up and went to sort out the best Rainbow col.) We then picked out anroute onto the ridge. The best line was other col further round the glacier to sidle up to where a short slab led which we decided was Moncrieff. To to an unbroken snow route to the top. reach this col we retraced our steps The slabs, very steep and almast hold- halfway back to the campsite and less, gave us some awkward moments climbed through an icefall onto the upladen with our 65 pound packs and per Volta neve, The upper Volta was trusting on friction alone. After this an endless almost flat expanse of snow on which we seemed to be getting no- in the wrong place and ended in a deswhere as we floundered on in increasing perate unorganised plunge for the oppoheat. After three hours of suffering we site bank through large slippery rocks came to the edge of the glacier and and a surging current. The second croslooked over to see not the Kitchener sing looked even worse than the first, so but the East Matukituki itself. The col we found a deep pool further up where we had headed for, which turned out the current was much slower. Allen to be Wilmott saddle, could not be swum across first to check it out and reached from our present position. It then we got a rope across and all was separated from the Volta by a high swum across with packs on. The third rocky ridge which we had encircled crossing was easy and we started out on our way round the glacier. We were on the sidle. now at the top of the Tartaurus ice- "You just bomb through those bluffs fall looking down on to Ruth flats and go down the ridge", said we who at the head of Bledisloe gorge in the had been down the gorge before. So East Matukituki. We were burnt and we bombed up and soent three hours tired from the heat and unwilling to sidling back and forth and climbing up indulge in any more guessing games and down in bush, tangled with lawyer with hopelessly inacurate maps so we which ripped at our sunburn, trying to elected to try and force a route down work our way through the bluffs. Finto Ruth flats. After trying an initial ally, beaten, we went back to where we lead which ended over a vertical bluff had started and picked up a blazed track we found our way to a place where the which led through the bluffs and down line of bluffs narrowed and by lowering to Junction flats in 45 minutes. For the packs and climbing down we gained rest of the trip we abused the unforeasier slopes which led to Ruth stream. tunate trip leader, who was not solely Our final problem was to find our way to blame for the mistakes, but then down Ruth stream which ran through a leaders are always a target for abuse. steep gorge before dropping a couple Another 14 hours took us to our campof hundred feet to the flats in a water- site, our five hour day stretched into fall. Animal trails led us out in a sidle a frustrating 8 hours. above the gorge and we finally lowered Noel and Pete went down to the packs again down a slab before climb- homestead to give our greetings to the ing down through vertical scrub to reach Aspinalls and came back with the news the valley floor. We camped on Ruth that we were invited for morning tea flats that night feeling decidely weary the next day. Our next easy day was to after a long and arduous day. be down the East Matuki to the junction As far as we know our route out of and up the West Matuki to Aspiring hut the Waitoto has never been done before to up food dump and then on to and our route off the Volta has only Perihs flat for our rest day. been done once, wav back in the dark But bad luck was to deal us one ages. Both routes would be considerably more blow. Early next morning we more difficult, if not impossible, if espied a lone walker approaching our there was less snow around. Neither camp. He was a man of about 65, of route is recommended. German nationality, and he brought the We had been going for six days now news that his mate had twisted his knee with no rest and were begining to look at Junction flat. We're too tired, we forward to our planned rest day in two thought, as we sent him off to the homeeasy days time. Our first easy day was stead, the Park Rangers will handle it. to be down Bledisloe and then Two hours later when we arrived at the out to the flat above Apreatne home- homestead Mrs. Aspinall told us she was stead near the junction of the East and sorry but the Ranger had asked her to West Mataukituki, a salubrious five detain us in case we were needed to hours, but we messed it up. The travel carry out the injured man. After a magis mostly good but bluffs necessitate three nificent morning tea we discovered that crossings of the river and a final onto we were needed. Mr. Aspinall had ofa ridge which descends to flats at the fered to take a horse and bring junction of the East Matuki and the the injured man out but his mate pro- Kitchener. The East Matuki was con- tested that he was too bad to ride a siderably higher than it had been the horse. so we took a stretcher and reprevious year when three members of traced our steps up the river with Mr. the trip had been down the gorge, and Aspinall. a couple of his sons and half the first crossing became a real struggle a dozen dogs. When we reached the inas both four man linked parties were jured man he was semi-conscious and swung across the current by a boulder obviously had more than a crook knee.

We were prepared to carry an injured and footprints of a previous party leadman but not a sick man who looked ing down and we were soon on our way like he could wipe out on us at again. A few hundred feet lower we minute, so we decided to call a hetx were once again below the mist and copter. Tony and one of Mr. Aspinall's benefiting from Allen's experience two sons took off back to the homestead years before were able to dodge the while Mr. Aspinall climbed a hill to scrub and make the bivvy rock in the try to make contact by using his small Arawata for lunch. We followed the walkie-talkie. Murray and Allen looked track from the top flats down to the after the injured man who was rav- middle flats where Murray settled arguing, having fits and generally behaving ments about camping there or continuin a most distressing manner. We ing to Williamsons flats by shooting two thought he may have had a heart attack deer. or a stroke. We feasted on venison that night and The helicopter arrived and whisked reached the vast Williamsons flats after the problem off our hands and we shot another hour through bush on the folback to the homestead for a glass of lowing day. We crossed the Arawata at ale, and offer of a hot meal and a bed Williamsons and one member of the for the night which we gratefully ac- trip caused considerable amusement by cepted. Our long awaited rest day was tripping over the only boulder in about postponed yet another day. the easiest crossing we had yet made. We arose before dawn next morn- After crossing the flats in blazing heat ing and consumed a good breakfast, we picked up the track through the again cooked by Mrs. Aspinall, then bluffs of the lower Joe and arrived at were given a lift by Mr. Aspinall down our campsite, a beautiful little grassy to the forks and up. past Raspberry Hut flat, after a seven hour day. Good sunin the West Matuki in his tractor and bathing was had by all in this idyllic truck. At Aspiring Hut a couple of spot deep in the wild West Coast. hours later we picked up our food dump, The next dav was to rank among the arranged through the Ranger and Mr. many that were called "one of our Aspinall, before moving up to Pearl flat hardest days". Because the Joe falls and climbing up to Liverpool bivvy to very, fast and travel near the river is make up. for our last day and put us rough, it is best to climb high (2000 in position to cross Arawata saddle feet) right at the start and then sidle after our rest day. across at this level to Victoria stream The weather was still set fair and below O'Leary pass by which time the our rest day passed in glorious sunshine. river has risen to the same level. Travel We feasted on tinned food and luxuries is mainly the struggle and curse type, from our food dump and Murray shot through thick beech regeneration across two chamois for next days' breakfast. innumerable gullies and spurs. As the At 2 a.m. next morning the weather was weather appeared to be packing in we -closing in so we went back to sleep. decided to go right to the top of O'Leary At 10 a.m. the weather was clearing pass from which point nothing could again and we had a heated debate as stop us from completing the trip. to whether to pack and go, but in- We boulder hopped Victoria stream action finally won and we stayed for a and had a long lunch stop before mov- -second sunbathe. ing off up the gut which provided the When 2 a.m. care round again the only route through a line of tremenweather clear, and by 4 a.m. we were dous bluffs. The gut was a shambles of on our way up to the saddle. Although great boulders and contained a lively the snow was a bit rubbishy there was cascading stream. We climbed in this enough of it to make things easier, and stream as much as possible enjoying the route up to the saddle was steep the sprayed cooled air and the scramble but straightforward. While we were up clean boulders, after the sweat and climbing, the top of the ridge had be- gunge of the morning. The gut eventually -come enveloped in West Coast murk ended in a 300 foot vertical wall and and when we came steaming up were we sidled out up snowerass benches unable to find the actual saddle and on the true left of the stream. The the beginning, of the route down, so short snowgrass provided doubtful holds we sat to await a gap in the mist. The and was so steep at times that all we cold wind soon drove those of us who could do was keep moving and hope are more tired by nature into our pits for the best, the exposure didn't bear for a few minutes sleep while the go-go thinking about. We soon struck bands men indulged in reconnnaisances. Pete of snow however, and made our way :and Noel returned from one such recce up through a further line of bluffs tto announce the discovery of the saddle to reach the top of the ridge with threat- tening cloud only about 100 foot above Dart valley, but we were light hearted, us. We were all pretty run down at this the trip was done. stage and were glad to drop packs and K.M. pitch camp in the rock sheep pen, built Members of the "A Team" were: Murby Brian Hunt's trip on the main divide ray Brown, Denis Gazley, Tony Gazley, above the pass two vears before. De- Peter Goodwin, Allen Higgins, Kevin scending cloud soon blocked out views Moynihan, Noel Thomas and Graham of Earnslaw and the broad bushclad Westerby. Deer Stalkers and T. & M. Hunting Trip to Fiordland Led by Mr. Frank Grant, Secretary bush edge very tired and thirsty. This of the Wellington Deer Stalkers Associ- proved to be a very good base camp ation, with a party of eight including overlooking the lake and surrounding Bill McLeman and myself, we left Wel- area. Here we found plenty of deer and lington 26th December by air for Christ- Bill shot a hind and foal the very first church. night. At first we were unaware of the We arrived at Te Anau at 2.30 p.m. Kea's in the area until we awoke one on the 27th. I was greatly impressed by morning to find John's sandshoes and the scenic beauty of the place with the two full bottles of primus fuel missing. bush covered slopes right to the edge Another morning John was awakened of the lake and the mountains in the by scratching on the side of the tent. background still thickly covered with On further inspection discovered a Kea snow. After making camp at the camp- making off with his trousers down the ing grounds for the night, we then ridge. A few carefully aimed rocks soon attended a meeting in town at Park ended the latter episode. In the days to H.Q., with the other seventy odd deer follow we found our cheeky Kea friends stalkers who were going into the park. a real menace, and from then on all gear We had many things to arrange and had to be put away before taking off discuss such as food, transport, exact on our day's hunt. location of each group and why we were The weather was very kind to us and there. The main reason for being there we all had a good time stalking and was to cull hinds, including Red hinds shooting every day. Our of four and all immature animals, in the hope people shot twenty-three grour between of building a good trophy herd of us. Wapiti. The Mocd we were assigned to The other group of our party was was block 6, "the Hoak Peaks" area less fortunate. They were allocated a situated on the north side of the Mid block on the coast and this mean't a Fiord of the lake. longer journey going to the end of the Setting off by launch on Saturday, lake, overland to the coast and on again 28th December, we were the fourth party by launch. They had bad weather every to be dropped off at our area. Although day and didn't shoot one animal between there were sign we found this spot un- them. They had become very meat hunsuitable for stalking. as it was very gry as they had depended on venison thickly clad with bush, which decided to help the menu. When the launch cal- La to push on to the tops. The weather led to pick us up they were a sorry was favourable and the sandfles very sight, all in low spirits after being bad. They really went to town on us. horribly sick from eating too much For some reason they seemed to fancy crayfish. Bill's blood better than anyone else's, However, a good time was had by all and even going into battle with spray and for myself I would like to do it bombs he still managed a bung eye. again. However this didn't him. getting' Those on the trip: John Bottom the nickname "Wapiti BHOP for his keen- (Leader D.S.A.), Graham Clark (N.Z. ness to stalk another deer at the end D.A.). Bill MacLeman (W.T. & M.C.), of a hard day and eating more and David Forbes (W.T. & M.C.). more venison well into the night. Seven hours later we arrived at the -D.F.