Syme Hut

Text taken from the club newsletter.

SYME HUT

Our first NZ alpine tramp by PATRIK GUASTAFSSON AND LETTIE ROACH

In other countries, a tramp has quite a different meaning. A word loaded with negativity. But undeterred, we signed up for the WTMC mere days after stepping off the plane from Europe, and discovered a whole new world of adventure. The word, once derogatory, now brings to mind sunshine, sweaty socks and stripey long johns.

We decided to ramp up to the next level by signing up to Snowcraft. The two instruction weekends, though limited by severe winds and thick north-easterlies, gave us some basic snow skills—big thanks to the volunteer instructors and our fellow students for the good times. As recent graduates, after a thorough background check, we were granted alpine clearance for a trip at the end of August by leader Debbie. We were heading to Taranaki, NZ’s deadliest mountain.

It’s deadly because it looks so easy, and it did look easy under the dawn light early on the Saturday morning. We climbed out of the bush and started the slog uphill in soft snow. With crampons and full packs on, we zigzagged up to 1900 m. We had started off in bright sunshine but swirling cloud moved in, temporarily hiding the hut we were looking for. But the clouds parted again and revealed The Fridge (aka Syme Hut), encrusted with icicles and frozen shut. Some nifty axe-work broke us in.

The summit beckoned under clear skies, so we continued onwards and upwards after lunch. The slope got steeper, providing even more of a work-out for our calves. The summit, when we could see it between the clouds that were coming in, looked so near and yet so far. The going was tough, the tough continued going for a while but with decreasing optimism of reaching the summit. The cloud got thicker and appeared to be settling, leaving no chance for the icy snow to soften. A group decision was made to turn back at approx. 2,300 m. Henry said a prayer to the mountain and the mountain apparently answered—the clouds parted momentarily to give us one last glimpse before we turned back down.

Going down was quick and we settled down for a sedate afternoon in the Fridge and somewhat unbelievably managed to stay up past 8 pm. The clouds disappeared when night fell, the moon lighting up the summit again. Sunrise at 7 am the next morning was spectacular. We all felt very lucky to be out enjoying it.

We claimed the summit of Fanthams Peak a short distance away before heading back down to the car park, enjoying some great views in the morning light. Conditions looked perfect for a second bash at the summit of Taranaki, but unfortunately we had to head back to Wellington—another time.

Having learnt some of the peculiarities of weather out here in the middle of the Southern Ocean, understood the benefits of caution in the mountains and even adopted the standard Kiwi tramping attire of shorts, bare legs and gaiters, we’re looking forward to our next adventure.