A Journey with Malcolm Alpenstock

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A Journey with Malcolm Alpenstock Paul Richardson It hadn't been much of a summer up The day after was a big day and we until the time we assembled in left early up Barlow moraine towards Hokitika. Bissell hospitality is Vertebrae Col but as we gained West Coast hospitality at its best height the Barlow Glacier became a and I enjoyed my day with them while more appealing route. (In other waiting for Malcolm to join us. words we hadn't been this way before The three on this trip were Malcolm and it looked feasible.) Malcolm Fisher, Trevor Bissell and myself. managed the snow with his crampons and alpenstock, a sturdy ribbonwood We started at 5 p.m. on a dull sapling he picked up in the Poerua. overcast Sunday with a stiff climb A few crevasses barred the way but up Rata Ridge to bushline from the Trevor skilfully weaved his way Poerua Valley road-end. First through and we finally ended up in a camp was prepared in a hurry trying vast expanse of snow - the Barlow to beat the rapidly fading light. and Farrar nêves. So good to once again enjoy the smell of scrub smoke in the air, Lunched on rocks below Farrar's soft tussock underfoot, billy tea, second summit and watched four squalid tent life and a West Coast Aussies crawling towards us. Had night. an abortive attempt at Farrar but gave up just below the top A clearance next morning showed us something to do with the knobbly where to go but we didn't see much sastrugi. Followed Aussie tracks after that and the climb to Mt down to the Garden of Eden then Fergusson and descent to Wilberg Ck slogged up to Adams Col and camp. junction was done in poor visibility. (We crossed the Devil's Backbone at That's why we lost the spur and 2290m.) ended up in a grotty little side creek. Damn cold, too. I'd almost forgotten how cold it can be Great plans were hatched for the in the alps in summertime. A most next day but dawn brought with it an depressing afternoon followed down ominously grey streaky sky = evil to the South Poerua confluence portents of a fast approaching storm. during which Malcolm sacrificed his We made an attempt at Guardian Peak iceaxe to the turbulent river. but gave this one away too, not far from the summit. Raced back to our Camp on a wet sand bank with packs and saddled up for the plod to saturated wood sent our enthusiasm Perth Col. Never made it, though, plunging, and next day wasn't any as the white-out was scary and we better as we grovelled up the steep turned back 40 minutes out. From sides of the south branch (the river Adams Col we followed Aussie tracks was high). Our losses were across to Eves Rib as they knew mounting alarmingly. My crampons where to go. We plunged down steep came adrift somewhere in the bush, soft snow to the rock screes where we'd left all our billy hooks at the we caught up with our mates, and last camp, and the knife was left at where the fun began. They didn't the camp before that. Campsites seem to be getting anywhere in a were scarce and the mist-drizzle hurry so we traversed downstream never gave up. then took a steep gut down to the river and beat them by miles. Four But all bad times eventually come to o'clock and time for lunch. Weather an end and next morning dawned fine not so bad down here. Camped for and cold, just when we needed it. the night about an hour downstream Clambered up the true left tributary on the true left about midway down all the way to scree and snow. Not the big gravel flat. much tussock, too cold, all snow. Lunch in the sun on the Kensington/ Fine again next morning and cold as Adams ridge. Quite chilly still usual. Up packs and away early for but great views of a wintry scene. Perth Col but we didn't see much in Getting off the snow wasn't so easy the swirling mist and we actually and the stress level rose again, but missed the col by several hundred Malcolm found a route down steep metres. Fleeting glimpses were had cemented scree and then it was all of the Garden of Eden peaks - just plain sailing and everyone for like a mid-winter's scene and cold himself to the Barlow gravel flat. enough for it, too. We huddled Two hours down and only 3 p.m. behind rocks munching lunch and Time to dry the gear, gather lots of trying to keep the piercing wind scrub and have a brew or two or out. Fine above us and fine to the three, and sunbathe. east so there was only one way to go.

The Barlow Valley from Adams Ridge. Route up Farrar Glacier (centre of photo) to Devil's Backbone and Garden of Eden. On the descent Trevor found a slot lake there's good travel down to and re-activated an old groin injury. Lyell hut. We put the rope on after that. Wee McGregor is a massive rubble heap Next morning we crossed the Lyell and so was the Frances. The bleak River just up from the hut and landscape of the upper valley was quickly reached the Ramsay Glacier. uninviting and the bitter wind By sticking close to the true right caused a change of plan as we headed then crossing diagonally to the true downvalley to find a sheltered spot. left just below the Clarke junction, We anchored the tent and fly the glacier was no trouble at all. securely that night. Climbed the creek and lunched in splendid surroundings, then spent Dawn brought fair weather in the the afternoon plugging up to east but cloud poured over the main Erewhon Col. The snow's usually divide and occasional sleet was felt hard at this time of year but not so in the air. The Frances Valley was this season with its heavy snowfalls easy going but the river looked a and we had to plug all the way. bit mean. We soon found out. Four Erewhon Col is one of the great numbingly cold crossings followed places in the Southern Alps but I had and we nearly backed out of the last camped here before and already knew one - nasty. But McCoy hut was a that. Even so it was a wonderful delightful haven of soft grass and thrill to poke my nose over the ridge sweet scented flowers. After lunch and see Evans again, mighty as ever we got the sleeping bags out and a mountain could be. A few years called it a day. ago I stood on its summit for a few short minutes - wish it could have A fine morning dawned but a strong been a day like this. Conditions cold headwind made for tiring travel were absolutely perfect for our one up the McCoy. No problems on the night stay at the col. glacial climb to McCoy Col where we Would you believe another fine lunched in the cold for a few hours. Time for a climb? Back down the day? There is a great view from here of Ramsay in variable snow and shadow Rakaia peaks (steeped in early led by hot-foot Malcolm. Climbed Canterbury mountaineering history). up to the notch in the ridge south Malcolm Peak looked terrific and so of Louper Peak where Malcolm turned did the snow plume tearing from its back, but Trevor and I continued on lofty summit. Not today, but one to the summit with some enjoyable day maybe.. Descent to the rock climbing on the way. Raced Lyell ice was easy and even the back to camp for lunch and several moraine wasn't too bad. From the brews and watched Malcolm return from a recce of Katzenbach Ridge. The mist had lifted next morning and we could look around and gaze at the We finally left at 3 p.m., reluctant massive bluffs and moraine walls to leave such a wonderful place and surrounding the lake and our camp. brilliant weather for the Wilkinson We had in fact found the only route murk below us. We reached the down. Decision time again. Shall snowline in good time but were then we cross to the Waitaha and take the enveloped by a dense cold mist. We high level route to the Cropp, or played the waiting game but didn't the valley route, or go down the have much luck. We appeared to be Wilkinson and Whitcombe? Decisions, at the top of a gully. It seemed decisions. I didn't trust Westland okay and we eventually proceeded weather any more and didn't think down as there was no water and no the weather would last long enough future in hanging around. We for us to do the high level route, descended slowly into the unknown in The Waitaha Valley route wasn't very almost zero visibility. Would the appealing either, as I'd done it gut end in a bluff? Would we have several times before. Malcolm was to climb back up? At last the keen to try the high route but Trevor gully fanned out and we found wasn't fussed. So perhaps ourselves at the top end of the big undemocratically we opted for the glacial Wilkinson lake. Quite a easy route down the Whitcombe. But scary place with hanging ice cliffs, we had to get there first. On the waterfalls, icebergs, desolate way down I sprained my ankle badly moraine and seagulls. They're then got a ducking in the Whitcombe always at such places. Down at the when we tried to cross. The true outlet we couldn't find any clean left wasn't much fun. Couldn't water. Crossed the outlet and decide whether it was quicker in the scrambled up Agfa Knob but the mist bush or along the river bank with had come in again and it began to its numerous obstacles. A newly drizzle and visibility was noncut track fortuitously appeared existent. Thrashed along the which hastened travel to the bridge, scrubby crest for a while, unable to the main track and Prices Flat hut decide, tired, ratty, brassed off, for the night. The forestry survey deflated, betrayed, depressed. boys here hadn't seen humans for Found a flat spot but Malcolm was quite a while and treated us royally. sceptical. But it was getting dark The possum stew was great but the very quickly and water wasn't too after-effects are quite something. far away, so the decision was made It's no wonder we all tramped for us. Perhaps what made this independently down the valley next place so depressing was the knowledge day to Hokitika and the end of a that it was fine above us. How I great trip. hated Westland that night. a Mangawaru Stream, Raukumara Range Andy Aanensen