The Greenstone and the Routeburn Valley Walk

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The Greenstone and the Routeburn Valley Walk Ron Fayle Early last year, I walked the Greenstone and Routeburn valleys with the Routeburn Walk Ltd, a companywhich provides the staff and facilities to make trips oft this nature easier for those who perhaps wouldn't be able to contemplate such a venture. enturies ago, the Maori travelled through these valleys to reach the greenstone. According to a handbook on the area, the greenstone trails were marked with the sweat of slaves and the blood of battle. It has since become popular with overseas tourists, as well as many New Zealanders. The trip, which I did with Dot and Dave Catchpole, and some overseas tourists was to take in the Greenstone and the Routeburn valleys via the Hollyford Valley and Harris Saddle. We reported to the Com- Key Summit, looking towards Lake Marion Dave Catchpole pany office for the briefing and were issued with towels, sleeping bag liners, and for those who wanted them, We continued our journey up the valley, climbing high parkas, overtrousers and packs. Food was supplied by above the river and then descending again. We ambled the Company with some carried in by the two guides, along at our own pace, the party getting rather spread while the non-perishable food was already in the lodges. out at times; however, the track was easy to follow and with the marvellous views, it was most enjoyable. The next morning, the weather was clearing after a southerly had passed through; there were 13 in the At about 4.30 pm, on rounding a low lying spur fairly group including the two guides, Matt and Mark. After the well up from the river, we were greeted by the sight of usual introductions we were taken by bus to Glenorchy. the first lodge we were to stayi in on the trip. This was Steele Creek Lodge. It was set fairly high on wooden Before setting out, we were given another briefing that piles over the grass, with weather boards and an iron we had a six-hour tramp ahead of us up the Greenstone roof. It was rather like a Lockwood home, I thought. Valley, some ofi it in bush, which was mainly beech forest, the track sidling above a gorge, and then over open l'm sure we were all glad to be able to sit down and relax river flats. The river is wide at this point, slow moving after a hot shower. I was feeling decidedly tired, my legs and dark green in colour. The track was easy going to aching more than a little. I had a good night's sleep. I start with but got rougher as we progressed. went to bed about 9.30 pm and it was bliss lying on my back looking up at the under-side of the bunk above, We crossed the Caples River and after about two hours, with my outstretched legs feeling like lead weights. Mark said he would go on ahead to the lunch spot to put the billy on. This was at a shelter situated on the edge We set off next morning with Matt in front this time, off thel bush where a gas ring for the kettle was connected crossing the large swing bridge over Steele Creek. Matt to a gas bottle. It was with some amusement and sur- pointed out some fairly good-sized trout in rock pools prise = we were told there was a modern flush toilet up we passed as we continued our way up the Greenstone, the track some 50 metres behind the shelter. It was a the track winding in and out of thel bush, the mountains very well-constructed unit, put in place with virtually no on both sides of the valley looking grand and superior damage to the surrounding forest. above us, making us feel decidedly punyi in comparison. Tramping and Mountaineering 1997

The weather was fine and the track more easy going than the previous day. We pressed on to Lake McKellar where we were to stay for two nights, the track becoming rocky and uneven. There was a light frost on the grass round the Lodge the next morning, which was meant to be a rest day. But having been given the option we chose to take the track which led from the back of the Lodge and climbed steeply up through the bush to the open tops of the Livingstone Mountains, where there was a magnificent view of the Hollyford Valley approaching Harris Saddle Dave Greenstone Valley. I took Catchpole my! binoculars with me and had a splendid view of the mountains. Looking at the We made good progress along the open track which we bare ragged rocks high up on the mountainsides, not a could see a good way ahead of us. Eventually, we came blade of grass or cover of any kind; it made me aware to another steep climb up onto the Harris Saddle where ofl how hostile the country would be if one was caught we stopped for lunch in the shelter. The weather started out in stormy weather. to deteriorate SO we didn't hang around after lunch but headed over the saddle and down into the basin where After lunch most of the party decided to climb a short large boulders and rocks were strewn about, past Lake distance to a small peak nearby on the main ridge from Harris and on to Routeburn Falls Lodge. which we could see down the other side into the Eglington Valley and Darran Mountains. We were very luckywith the weather, as it only started to rain after we arrived at the Routeburn Falls Lodge. After our "rest day" wel headed for Lake Howden and Key Keas are common there and we had the company of one Summit. This is a delightful shrubland area scattered for a few minutes. Apparently, this one is a regular visiwith small tarns and covered by an abundance of alpine tor at about 5 pm and is referred to by Mark and Matt plants. For this reason, it has been designated a "Frag- as "the big budgie". It entertained us for awhile, particuile Area", and DOChas built a wooden walkway off the larly the overseas visitors. It was only a few short feet ground to keep people from damaging the native flora. away watching us with its inquisitive, beady eyes. We could see into the Hollyford Valley for the first time and we could also see Mt. Christina and the hanging val- After we had eaten our dinner that night our last on ley of Lake Marion. It was beautiful up there but it was the trip Matt and Mark told us we had to catch our time for us to return to the hut for lunch. desserts. To shouts and laughter and much encouragement from the rest, we each in turn took a plate and tried We continued on along the mountain track which to catch our freshly cooked pancake which our guides hugged high mountain bluffs as it climbed gently to Lake tossed to us with their backs to us, over their heads McKenzie. We stayed in Lake McKenzie Lodge that night, aimed in the general direction of the wall behind them. where we had another excellent dinner and comfortable Needless to say, one or two finished up on the floor, but night. It's an interesting area, being right on the bush- no one seemed to mind. line and formed by an ancient hanging glacier. The last day dawned wet and windy. We were amazed From Lake McKenzie the track led past huge rocks and at the land-slips that had washed out great chunks of up a zigzag climb, levelling out well above the bush. bush during the floods of January '94. After arriving at Once or twice while traversing the Hollyford Face, Iwas the roadend, we were picked up by bus and taken back conscious of how exposed the track was, but also ofthe to Glenorchy and Queenstown. beauty of the environment, the abundance of the plants which at times looked like an alpine garden high up on By the end of the trip we were all good friends, having the mountainsides, and great views of the mountains shared many experiences and lots oflaughs. Except for looking majestic and serene with patches of snow still Dot and Dave, the two guides and me, all were overseas on them from the winter. tourists, but it was an excellent mix of people. Tramping and Mountaineering 1997