Paddling the Bowron Lakes

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Paddling the Bowron Lakes Grant Newton When in Canada, do as the Canadians do, or SO I thought. Canadian canoeing seemed a great way to see the spectacular centre of British Columbia. The possibility of organising the trip myself seemed impractical due to the remoteness and mylack of time in Canada, SO I did the unthinkable and booked a guided trip. group of nine (8 Canadians and a lone Kiwi) rangingi in age from 9 years to early sixties set off and Ain typical North American fashion, thel lakes were a decent drive away. We arrived in the early evening and soon found that the temperatures would be a little chillier than in Vancouver. The Bowron Lakes circuit is one of the most famous canoe trips in the world, a circuit of about ten lakes, stretches of river and some portages which total 116 km in length, taking typically 7 or 8 days paddling. The lakes are between 900 and 950 metres above sea level and are surrounded by mountains of up to 2500 metres. Ita all sounded like a great adventure and we awoke to see that the weather was fine on day one. That was the good news; the not SO good news was that the start of our journey was a 2.4 km portage geez these things are for the goddamn water, not for pulling along a walking track on wheels! Well, after 2.4 km I was buggered, but ahead lay some paddling on a calm lake. This was the trendi for thej journey ahead: fine weather and calm conditions. We were gently eased into the paddling part of the journey with a short paddle before lazing beside thel lake eatingl lunch the circuit has a total of over 50 campsites which were deserted following ther main holiday season, and these ensured plenty of ideal spots for lunch. After lunch we had the opportunity to swear and curse again, as a 2 km portage lay ahead, then a short paddle to our Morning mist on Bowron Lakes Grant Newton first campsite. It was the pulling of those damn boats that used up the energy at least the worst of the portages Wakening to another fine morning on day six, wel hada were out of the way. pleasant paddle to the end of Lanezi Lake and across the Canadian campsites were: somewhat different to what beautiful Sandy Lake to a long lunch break before circling Ihad stayed at before. Due to the bears that inhabit the around through a section of marshes to another great parks, all campsites are well-equipped with bear caches campsite. orl lockers for food or toiletries that may attract the bears. Our penultimate day involved a mixture of lakes, riv- A pleasant sight was the cleanliness of the campsites, ers, portages, moose sightings and weaving through no doubt spurred on by the threat of bears. marshes to a windy lunch spot. With one dayremaining, After a short paddle on day two, it was time to portage the weather had been too good tol last and a little moisture again before the paddle on Isaac Lake, which was to suggested tomorrow would be less pleasant. take 2% days. Some cruisy paddling, some tougher pad- As expected we awoke to a few spots of rain on our dling (trying to master the "J" stroke, which keeps the final day but the wind was still coming from the south. boat heading straight) and plenty of lazy times ensured It soon became obvious that the wind was changing to this was a very pleasant experience. the north, the rain getting heavier and the temperatures On the morning of day four, we awoke to the sight of plummeting. Weaving through the marshes in the mismoose near the campsite amongst the mist that hung over erable conditions was unpleasant, but battling the wind thel lake. A great opportunity for photos before setting off on Bowron Lake was definitely less pleasant. After strugon another still day's paddling. gling for 30 minutes the skies cleared a little, the wind Day fivel began with a portage before some of thel best began to drop and behind us we saw hillsides covered paddling of the trip if you can call it paddling. The in snow; now we understood the nippy temperatures Isaac River meant minimal paddling as we gently coasted weren't just a result of the rain. downstream, spotting some large fish and keeping an A hot shower was a great relief and then the long eye out for logs that may cause problems for a canoe. journey back to Vancouver completed a great trip. Tramping and Mountaineering 1999