Paradise Outside the Tent Door

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Paradise Outside the Tent Door Nola Urquhart Sorata (2695m) is a small town described in the Lonely Planet book as "Medieval looking steep stairways and a maze of narrow cobblestone streets' ". Possibly the finest setting of any town in Bolivia and under the hiking section the words "some of Bolivia's finest hiking.. " Wow, I thought, after reading these descriptions while sitting in a hotel room in La Paz, why not continue to trek while we, were still fit and healthy. orata certainly was wonderful after a 4-hour, steep, The next morning dawned clear and cool. We chatted spectacular bus ride. We arrived, keen to get walk- to two girls who had climbed to the Lagina Glacier the day ing anda lapproachedt the before and theyinformed us local guide office. With my that it was four long hours limited Spanish and many to the glacier. Oh well, we hand signals we agreed on a thought, it's only a 650-m 3-dayl hiket to Lagina Glacier, climbsoitwon'tbet tool bad. with Alferdo as our guide, We set off and came to a and much to ourj joy, a mule view of something. Our to carry the packs. guide chatted away and I At 9 o'clock the next hardlyunderstood: anyofhis morning we set off up a talk. I realised later that he beautiful valley. We knew was pointing out how far it that camp that night was was to our destination- I l'm 2,000m higher up atl Laguna gladwe didn'tcomprehend Chilleta, a lake surrounded it at the time. After two by peaks and glaciers. We hours we were really wonset off steadily; the cantandering where wer werel headkerous mule (who had aling; there was not topin sight ready tried to bite Shona) and the altitude was really was carrying! both our packs biting. After three hours we and the guide's supplies. I were walking very slowly was a little amused when the and resting every half a guide pulled ahead of us and dozen steps. Our guide, on continued walking with us in the other hand, skipped on tow, not stopping until 1,000 ahead and waited patiently metres had been climbed. for us, continuing to chat The mule seemed much away. keener to stop she wanted Finally we were walking to stop every metre. At this up a steep slope and our point we were starting tot feel guidei informed us therewas the altitude and lunch pro- A superb campsite Nola Urquhart 20 minutes to go. What an vided a welcome break. incredibly longh hard 20 min- After lunch we continued utes; some Chilean chocolate to climb steadily towards snow-covered mountains. By helped heaps.. At last we surveyeda a bouldered: area with a 4,000 metres a slow pace and much gazing at the view lake and the glacier I people were even camping here. had become the norm. The mule was getting worse, stop- Wet flopped down and gazed at the glacier, SO glad tol have ping and hee-hawing every couple of metres. If she saw arrived. At this height it was bitterly cold so we had a another mule she would stop and make a terrible noise quick lunch, took some photos and headed back down, for 5 minutes before the guide could get her moving again. taking in the great views towards Lake Titicaca and the Along the ascent we passed through several small vil- Peru border. Istill couldn't believe it took four hours for lages. We walked behind people herding sheep, cattle and the 650-metre climb. goats, locals carrying firewooda andl kids heading to school. Descending was easy, our guide still very keen and run- People greeted us warmly, shouting "holla" and shaking ning ahead. Returning to thel lake took a very pleasant two our hands. hours. That evening was certainly great; high snow-cOV- Around two o'clock in the afternoon, we reached the ered mountains, bright red sunset, and numerous cups of lake at 4,480m. It was great to lie down and just gaze at tea. Just paradise! Shame about ther noisy mule, which did the view; itwas also nice tol have: someone to boil thel billy nothing that dayl but stay behind at camp ande eat. and tether the mule (which was still unhappy, making a The following day, slightly sore, we returned to Sorata terrible noise beside the lake. feeling like wel had seen a reallyincredible piece ofl Bolivia. Tramping and Mountaineering 1999