Goblins and snow

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Goblins and snow

I was keen to introduce a Tararua tramper to the "goblin forest" in the (Jrewera National pat

On each of the four previous times I had been to Manuoha, the highest point in the (Jrew National Park, I had expected to see goblins going about their daily chores and only my ov selfish desire to keep the place as uninhabited by humans as possible prevented me fra informing the producer of "Lord of the Rings" of this magic spot. Queen's Birthd seemed an ideal time to go; little did we imagine what was in store for t

C C /^ ripes this is going to be cool" were I typical of the comments Pete and I -'/ made as we left Rotorua with 3-dayold snow on Mt Tarawera - the snow usually disappears by midday - and frost was still lying on the sheltered parts of the road as we twisted and turned our way to Lake Waikaremoana. We spent Friday night in a cabin at the Lake Waikaremoana Motor Camp; neither our cabin northe kitchen offered much relief from the intense cold. We slept with the heater on and it was almost a delight to wake, stretch the limbs, eat a hot breakfast and get moving.

We left our car at the motor camp and walked along the gravel road, past the Park Headquarters and on to the Lake Waikareiti Track. Climbing steadily up the well-graded track we contemplated the beauty of the large beech trees, the chattering of the kaka and the feeling of warmth generated by the climb. We stopped at the picnic shelter at the southern end ofthe lake for a breather, a snack, and a chat to a Japanese tourist. Sometimes when tramping, I wonder where all the New Zealanders are.

On leaving the picnic shelter we were soon crunching our way through patches of snow but walking was pleasant in the cool forest with the sun shining through the trees. Stopping invited the cold and we walked steadily to Sandy Bay Hut. Waves were scudding into the beach at Sandy Bay and the hut was surrounded by snow. Although it was the middle of the day the sun was hidden behind the hills and lunch was a cold affair. In pref.erence to shivering we quickly drank cups of warming tea, ate thick cheese sandwiches, and departed for ihe lagoons.

I had promisedPete that we would be able to light a big fire at the campsite by the lagoons, saying that there was a ready-made campfire site and plenty of dry firewood. As we neared the lagoon I imagined myself standing in front of a blazing fire and wrapping my hands around a mug of hot chocolate - it would sure beat drinking cappuccinos in the "Fat Dog Caf6" back in Rotorua. The reality was that the ground was frozen and everything, including the firewood, was covered in 10cm of snow. Collecting firewood was out of the question. We pitched

Judy Gardner and Peter Coodu

Judy in the goblin forest (Pete Goodwin)

the tent on the frozen ground, collected enough water f< the night and retreated into the tent. We put on all ot clothes and squirmed our way into our sleeping bag Cooking was done, carefully, {rom the pit. Another star night meant another cold night.

The morning brought no change in the weather and w were pleased to start climbing up onto the ridge. The ridg up onto Manuoha is one of those pleasant climbs wit

Tramping and Mountaineering 2001 /20A glimpses of the lagoons, the lakes, the Ruatikuri, an impressive river valley, and allthe time walking through the changing vegetation. Although the ridge climbs 400m, there are no steep bits. Pete was worried about his feet as we were now continuously walking in 20-30cm of snow and he was only wearing $20 "Warehouse" boots and no puttees. Thankfully, the snow was dry and unless the snow got down your boots or down your neck it presented no problems. A combination of the cool southeasterly, the cold and the snow meantthatwe walked in jerseys, long johns, nylon parkas, hats and gloves. We were pleased to come across a sheltered spot where we had a brew and a snack.

rcdwin lPark. 'ewera y own z from thday for us.

The snow and lack of track markers made following the track difficult especially when we came to a large slip where the snow was kneedeep. Pete had to have several attempts before he found the track. He commented, "this snow is so good I would love to have my skis". The beauty of the goblin forest was somewhat diminished because of the snow - it felt more like we were walking through a Northern Hemisphere Christmas scene. Perhaps, the goblins had all gone underground for the winter.

Arriving at the hut there was still no opportunity to light a fire as although the small8-bunk hut had a pot belly stove, all the potential firewood was covered in snow or frozen to the ground. We shut the door and lit the primus. Later in the afternoon we were reassured that some New Zealanders do go trampingwhen two turned up. They had walked up the ridge from Hopuruahine.

Dawn at Manuoha Trig (Judy Gardner)

The afternoon passed with brews, a trip to the nearby trig, more brews and tea. Another clear night meant it was cold again. We all snuggled down into our sleeping bags fairly early. Waking in the morning, I could sense that it was going to be a morning of great beauty. I quickly put on my warm clothes and went to the trig - it was dark but all the signs were there for a beautiful sunrise. I rushed back to the three snug sleeping bodies urging and cajoling them to get up and come to the trig. They agreed although Pete was, once again, concerned about those Warehouse boots and his feet. From the trig we could see the Raukumaras, Kawekas, Kaimanawas, Ruapehu, Pureora, Mt Tarawera, Mt Edgecumbe, and the lights of Napier - although, I have to admit, we had to redraw our map several times to make everything fit. I do not think any of us could believe

Br for Jl our bags. starry rd we ridge rwith

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Tramping and Mountaineering 2OO1 /2002 jii "P ;i

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we could see so much. Slowly darkness faded and the sky in the east lightened. The horizon was streaked with cloud and we were treated to red streaks in the sky before the sun lit up Ruapehu. Soon after the sun lit up the trig Pete declared that his feetwerc "bloody frozen" so we retreated to the hut for breakfast and a hot brew.

We packed and left. Snow was stillwell down in the bush and the goblins were still hiding from the cold. We sauntered down the ridge to Hopuruahine, reluctant to leave the beauty of the snow-covered forest. We had only just arrived at the roadend when a ute came along and offered us a ride. We sat in the back and watched the countryside fly by. Although, driving home the frost was still on the side of the road and neither of us doubted that it would be a long time before you could spend such a beautiful weekend in the snow.