Hanging with the rellies

Hanging with the rellies

It was a family affair. Conceived at Cousin Jenny's wedding, amid various states of inebriation numerous cousins cried, "count me in!" "!I conceived", was what the same cousins later cried a moments of exhaustion and aching feet. Hence, the "Heaphy Hoofer 2000,, was born f)tans flew thick and fast, that is ,,who would plan f and organise everything?" Brother_in_law Karliook responsibility and, as was later commented, ,,was more suited to being a chief executive than a chief tramper,,. Designated the food organiser for half of the eight, I received, several monitoring phone calls from my father, a veteran tramper, to check on progress. ,,yes Dad, I know it,s for four nights... Yes Dad, I know there's fourof us. . .,,

So, with my mother.as driver, including a typed itinerary which specifi ed "free days" for her (in .ui" .-h" wondered what happened to herself between drop_off and pick_up), four cousins, three "in-laws,,, and my father, uncle to cousins, commenced our journey in the footsteps of James Mackay.

The Heaphy Track is one of New Zealand,s great walks, loggted in Kahurangi National park in the northwest corner of the South Island. The 77 -kjlometre long track traverses a varietgr of tenain in its journey between the Aorere Valley, near Collingwood in the east, and Kohaihai, north of Karamea, on the West Coast. Dependent on group fitness, the track is typically walked in three to six dJys; we did it comfortably in four. When I walked this track in November 2000, mountain bikers were lobbying the Department of Conservation (DOC) to allow a short season of riding the

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Walked east to west, the track starts at Brown Hut, about 200m above sea level, taking about five hours to reach Perry Saddle Hut. In heavy .uin thi. end of the track can be cut off when the Aorere Valley Road river fords become flooded. The track briefly follows the river before commencing a gradual ascent on a well_graded track through beech forest to a high point of g00;, just below the crest of Brown Hill (1104m). packs laden with four days worth of food, and as became apparent over the course of the tramp, two litres of spirits, we whinediwound our way up to Perry Saddle. A disappointment on walking up the hill was the lack of viewpoints cut through the trees from which to appreciate the view.

Aorere Shelter is about an hour's walk from pemT Saddle Hut and has a small water supply. Not far away is Flanagans Point, which gives superb views of Mt dlympus and seemingly endless beech cloaked ranges. Rej beech and mountain neinei - the pineapple tree, mix with lime green spiky cabbage trees and the bleached white of poiru_ denuded tree skeletons. Mountain neinei (Dracophyltum

Tramping and Mountaineering 2001 /2002

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Traversii) has a fantastic red tinge to the tips of the leaves and is reminiscent of Dr Zeuss's "truffle-a-trees". These trees are found along the track for several days' walk.

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Perry Saddle Hut is a comfortable hut. Like allthe huts on the Heaphy Track you are likely to find toilet paper, pots and gas cookers available for use, although DOC does not guarantee availability. As with all the great walks, access is controlled by DOC who try to limit numbers in peak times to reduce the impact on the environment and preserve the estate in their care for future generations. Walkers are not guaranteed a bed, and during the peak summer season DOC recommends a tent be carried, or an early start made to ensure a bunk at the next hut.

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Our first night at Perry Saddle Hut determined the subsequent pattern of sleeping arrangements. This would be an undignified rush for the other bunkroom that Karl would not be sleeping in, following particularly loud and continuous snoring overnight.

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From Perry Saddle Hut the track leads through more undulating beech forest to the Gouland Downs, an expansive area covered in fantastic red and gold coloured tussock. It takes about tivo hours to reach Gouland Downs Hut. The track traverses the Gouland Downs dropping down in places to cross green and grey streams. In places over the Downs the track becomes a road. Not long before Gouland Downs Hut is an unusual and intriguing species of tree, a shoe tree. Over the years those passing over the Downs have left old worn out tramping boots tied to a lichen encrusted marker post. More recently the post has accumuiated more than worn out tramping boots, with sneakers and remarkably new women's high-heeled sandals, that would be just the thing for clubbing. Gouland Downs Hut is an older style hut with a pleasant view over the tussock and herb-land, a perfect location for a brew-up on a rainy day or a quieter night than might be found at the larger huts in either direction.

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From a slightly northwest direction the track then runs almost due west over the Downs. Several streams are crossed en route to Saxon Hut and wire bridges over the larger streams can be used after heavy rains, or for those preferring dry feet. It takes about 1" hours to reach Saxon Hut.

At Saxon Hut we found cheeky wekas who stole some apricots from an unguarded pack. Saxon Hut is fairly new. It is an excellent lunch stopping point and a quiet place for a snooze.

From Saxon to James Mackay Hut, about three hours, the track passes bet'ween the Tubman Range and the Slate Range. The terrain becomes more varied from this point changing from open tussock to lush West Coast vegetation, dripping moss in the rain. The track is raised in places on a boardwalk to protect wetland, and then mixes with drier sandy soils with large granite boulders that looked like giants' exposed bottoms. The track skirls the Mackay Downs and the vegetation becomes shrub mixed with beech forest.

Crossing the conservancy boundary the track becomes less well maintained, although track work was in progress. Passing equipment on the side of the track, we were surprised to find a Hughes helicopter appearing out of the low cloud to drop off equipment. We stopped briefly and munched on muesli bars while watching the entertainment and trying to decide what the various pieces of gear would be used for.

We reached James Mackay Hut in sunlight, with its view of the mouth of the Heaphy River some 800m below and enjoyed a superb sunset with the rivermouth glinting in the late sun. Squinting at the sparkling rivermouth there was some suggestion that whitebait could be seen, and discussion turned to the availability of pantyhose to fish for ihe "mythical" creatures. Noticing that cousin Martyn was looking rather jaded, I offered him a "Carbo Shotz" squeezy tube of carbohydrate gel. The change was miraculous. Within minutes he changed from withdrawn and quiet, to full of energy, talking nine to the dozen. From this point forth we duly named him "Captain Carbo" and kept a closer eye on his food intake.

The track from James Mackay Hut to Lewis Hut drops steadily down a well-graded track for about two hours with tantalising glimpses of the white gravelbanks of the Heaphy

River and sea for much of the descent' Here you truly enter the West Coast forest, walking through towering rimu and podocarp. In dappled sunlight it was a magical descent, being amongst the trees and hearing tuis and bellbirds.

Taking a break on the track we were entertained by an inquisitive robin.

Lewis Hut, a fine lunch spot, is found overlooking the confluence of the Heaphy River and another stream.

Basking in sunlight it seems the perfect place to spend a day or two relaxing. The track leaving Lewis Hut, if you can drag yourself away, leads to the first of three bouncy wire bridges over the murky green Heaphy and its tributaries.

Then begins possibly one of the most pleasant pieces of irack in New Zealand. The track sidles along the Heaphy

River and enters lush rata forest and nikau groves. Limestone cliffs emerge from hanging vegetation and the pale gravel banks of the Heaphy provide a gorgeous contrast. Cheeky wekas stroll the track and hanging vines twine themselves around enormous rata. My father, Wally, commented that in 50 years of tramping, an enormous rata was the biggest he's ever seen.

Emerging foot weary at the mouth of the Heaphy after another two hours, we found the Heaphy Hut sitting at the top of a gentle grassy slope leading down to the river. An older hut, it has picnic tables arranged outside to enjoy the ambience, although not the sandflies. At the time the rivermouth was some distance away and the sand spit on the southern side of the rivermouth was littered with a\

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That night we had a birthday party as cousin John celebrated his 50'h birthday in style, producing a (glass)

bottle of Tullamore Dew that he had lugged for three days.

A Dutch/Mexican couple who had been keeping time with us during our journey obviously decided "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em", and took an enthusiastic turn with party poppers, balloon whistles and Wally's stories.

Next morning, we started off on our last day, under greying skies. The track from Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai

Shelter, about five hours, hugs the coast providing a nalrow corridor between the sea and the Domett Range. Many rugged, stony beaches are passed and closer to Kohaihai

Bluff you can walk over sandy beaches' Groves of salt and wind-seared nikau grow to the beach edges, making you feel the location is Tahiti, not New Zealand. A number ol swingbridges cross stony creeks and in places the nikau groves have debris tangled around their roots - evidence of storms and heavy rainfall. ln places, flowering shrubs overhang the track and wild nasturtium cascades down banks, brightening the way with orange blooms.

In the final leg of this journey the track climbs up and inside of Kohaihai Bluff, affording views of the recently crossed Scott's Beach to the north and Kohaihai carparl and camping area to the south. Dropping back to sea leve the path leads inland around a lagoon and you can detour around the Nikau Walk. Looking back towards the sea

Kohaihai Bluff's white limestone peeks from beneath it:

olive clothes of native trees. One final rise and the oper grassy carpark beckons for a relaxing lie down on spring5 grass, and beers all round provided by my mother who wat there with the rental van to pick us up.

Tramping and Mountaineering 2001/200