On Top of Half Dome

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On Top of Half Dome Grant Newton On the road for five months, there was only one last mission on my travels to see the spectacular landscape of Yosemite National Park. Were the stunning images produced by Ansel Adams for real? Top ofHalf Dome Grant Newton ravel to the parki is a hassle, as buses don't go there is no water. Still, a pleasant walki is had by climbing to the direct, SO after three bus trips and a day wasted I top and looking down to the valley below. The evening arrived at the park as darkness fell. With myl head produced another visit from a bear; obviously it wasn't torch on I set off in search of a spot to pitch my tent; worth trying the same spot again, SO it annoyed other luckily there were a few, but very few spaces available at campers instead. the Sunnyside walk-in campground. Unfortunately, they My second day was another day walk. Rising and getweren't great sites and I ended up close to the rubbish ting underway before the masses of tourists rose, I took and recycling bins. With tent pitched and food in thel bear the track to Glacier Point. A steep climb ledi to a spectaculocker I - got a good night's sleep - that was until about lar viewing point, from thet famous rock of El Capitan past 2am when heavy footsteps wenti right past myt tent. AI BEAR! Half Dome, standing prouder than a honeymooner's dick, Ohs s**t, what's going tol happen here? to more of the great valleys and rock off the park. Unfortu- After it made plenty of noise trying unsuccessfully to nately this point is accessible by car or bus, SO after getbreaki into thel bear-proof bins, some other camper scared ting some photos and enjoying the views, many started thel beast away. When I woke in the morning I realised their overly demanding, severel hike from the car to the that this was always likely to occur with the messy: state point, a mere 2-minute stroll away. I headed on in the ofthe campground. The climbers whoi inhabited this camp- opposite direction from where l'dcome, enjoying some site didn't seem to care, even though the signs indicate bush and more great views until I reached the Nevada thei incredible amount of damage done byl bears. made Falls in the earlyafternoon. Although rain was threatensure the area near to my: site was clean; no repeat visits ing, nothing came of the weather change in the valley, but wouldl be appreciated. the northern partoft the park was experiencinga littles snow. The Yosemite Falls mayl be some of thel highest falls in On my return to the valley floor, it was time to think the world, but come autumn (or should that be fall?) there about escaping the "lazy tourist" infested valley floor Even Tramping and Mountaineering 1999 though this was the shoulder season, when a park gets 4,000,000 visitors each yeart then it's going to be veryl busy even during thes shoulder season.. Armed with a wilderness permit (these aret free and are used to avoid overcrowding away from the valley floor), I was ready tol leave the valley on a 4-day tramp the next day. Beginning at 8.00am, I again managed to avoid people as I set off past the Vernal Falls, on to thel Nevada Falls and beyond. met very few people on thet track, although I did bump into an Aussie whoir indicated overnight temperaturesl hadl been cold and winds high, and he was even scared his tent would be demolished the previous night due to the conditions. It all sounded like trip reports from the Tararuas, but thel bad weather had passed and the forecast was looking great. Heading past Half Dome producedmany: spectacularviews andlcontinued up to an alpiner meadow ats 9,400ftwherelwoulde campt the night. Even though this was an established campsite with outhouses andl bearl lockers, I was well away from the crowds, sharing the camping area with only 4 others. I awoke to a crisp morning. A still stream hadhalf frozen over, but the air was clear as I headed across the meadow towards Cathedral Lakes and the spectacular Cathedral Peak. Arriving at Tuolumne/Meadows, lencountered plenty of people setting off on short walks or milling around the visitor centre. Five minutes later I was Cathedral Peaks, Yosemite National Park Grant Newton back in the bush with nothing but the sound of birds as I headed up to Vogelsang campsite wherelwould spendr my second night. to reach thet top. Spectacular views unfolded asl I stood on Arriving at the campsite beside Fletcher Lake, I realised an overhang looking 5,000ft down to the valley floor. this was going to be a chilly night with the clear skies and As Iwas heading down, the masses were heading up an altitude of 10,200ft. mustl have passed at least 500 people on mywayback began the next day with a short climb to Vogelsang to the campsite, and then on to the valley floor. Pass before beginning the descent. Beautiful emerald col- Tired after 4 long days, I was delighted to find some oured lakes were common as Iheaded down to Merced free showers and unlimited hot water - never havel Ihad Lake for lunch and then on to Little Yosemite campsite. such a great shower! Thel long weekend this Saturday night meant it was going The temperature was in the high 20s and with deer tol be a little busier than the two previous nights, thougha a wandering around the valley, this seemed la pretty damn great campground in the bush ensured a pleasant stay. good place to be. One night left in the park; a stroll the While only: 2 or 3 hours from the valley floor, this was next morning, souvenir shopping at the Ansel Adams galto be another decent hike as I intended to make it to the lery and then it was time to leave. top of Half Dome. The famous rock must be one of the had to try and put out of my mind that 5% months most photographed places in the world and climbing the travel was about to come to an end as Iwould board the face is an epic adventure for all rock enthusiasts, taking plane for thel homeward journey in 3 days. I came away approximately 1 week. Instead I took the somewhat easier with one conclusion: this national park is as spectacular route, though still a good hike up the back, using the cable as you see in Ansel Adams photographs. Tramping and Mountaineering 1999